Problematic CEL relating to primary O2
#41
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This sounds like a familiar story.
When I had problems with my front O2 sensor I tried aftermarket sensors, which would last a few months and then the same CEL would appear (related to heating circuit). I'd clean the O2 sensor, re do the wiring, but the problem would return. I went through two cheap O2 sensors before I decided to get my injectors cleaned, and then fitted a genuine Honda O2 sensor. That must have been 4+ years ago and I've not had a problem since (touchwood).
When I had problems with my front O2 sensor I tried aftermarket sensors, which would last a few months and then the same CEL would appear (related to heating circuit). I'd clean the O2 sensor, re do the wiring, but the problem would return. I went through two cheap O2 sensors before I decided to get my injectors cleaned, and then fitted a genuine Honda O2 sensor. That must have been 4+ years ago and I've not had a problem since (touchwood).
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
This sounds like a familiar story.
When I had problems with my front O2 sensor I tried aftermarket sensors, which would last a few months and then the same CEL would appear (related to heating circuit). I'd clean the O2 sensor, re do the wiring, but the problem would return. I went through two cheap O2 sensors before I decided to get my injectors cleaned, and then fitted a genuine Honda O2 sensor. That must have been 4+ years ago and I've not had a problem since (touchwood).
When I had problems with my front O2 sensor I tried aftermarket sensors, which would last a few months and then the same CEL would appear (related to heating circuit). I'd clean the O2 sensor, re do the wiring, but the problem would return. I went through two cheap O2 sensors before I decided to get my injectors cleaned, and then fitted a genuine Honda O2 sensor. That must have been 4+ years ago and I've not had a problem since (touchwood).
#43
Nothing wrong with the Walker I fitted one on my car about a month ago.
The sensor is heated up purely to speed up the reading from it when it's cold , it isn't heated up for a long time. If it isn't getting the signal to say it's heating or has heated it will throw a fault, this is typically a response/watchdog for anyone familiar with control systems.
I suspect a bad ground or grounding out some where, inspect the sensor it's self and where the wire goes from the plug that connects to the sensor.
Oh and you can't really clean o2 sensors.
The sensor is heated up purely to speed up the reading from it when it's cold , it isn't heated up for a long time. If it isn't getting the signal to say it's heating or has heated it will throw a fault, this is typically a response/watchdog for anyone familiar with control systems.
I suspect a bad ground or grounding out some where, inspect the sensor it's self and where the wire goes from the plug that connects to the sensor.
Oh and you can't really clean o2 sensors.
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nothing wrong with the Walker I fitted one on my car about a month ago.
The sensor is heated up purely to speed up the reading from it when it's cold , it isn't heated up for a long time. If it isn't getting the signal to say it's heating or has heated it will throw a fault, this is typically a response/watchdog for anyone familiar with control systems.
I suspect a bad ground or grounding out some where, inspect the sensor it's self and where the wire goes from the plug that connects to the sensor.
Oh and you can't really clean o2 sensors.
The sensor is heated up purely to speed up the reading from it when it's cold , it isn't heated up for a long time. If it isn't getting the signal to say it's heating or has heated it will throw a fault, this is typically a response/watchdog for anyone familiar with control systems.
I suspect a bad ground or grounding out some where, inspect the sensor it's self and where the wire goes from the plug that connects to the sensor.
Oh and you can't really clean o2 sensors.
#45
Some ECUs won't run the engine in a closed loop mode if it's getting / got a DTC relating to engine management - which means it could just be idling on it's base map + IACV rather than the feedback from the primary Lambda sensor.
Get a multi-meter on the loom, it's possible there's no visible damage but the wiring core inside has parted company
Get a multi-meter on the loom, it's possible there's no visible damage but the wiring core inside has parted company
#46
Registered User
Thread Starter
Some ECUs won't run the engine in a closed loop mode if it's getting / got a DTC relating to engine management - which means it could just be idling on it's base map + IACV rather than the feedback from the primary Lambda sensor.
Get a multi-meter on the loom, it's possible there's no visible damage but the wiring core inside has parted company
Get a multi-meter on the loom, it's possible there's no visible damage but the wiring core inside has parted company
#47
It's worth checking for high resistance (or even lack of continuity entirely) on the sensor heater circuit too - just to rule that out. Not sure about the colours but I have grey and white in my head - hopefully someone could correct me if I'm wrong.
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Cleaned pins and still heater circuit error. Plugged old O2 in for shitz n' giggles after cleaning the pins up and its working.
New lambda is obviously not the right one for the car :/
If the problem comes back again I'm just going to take it to Honda.
New lambda is obviously not the right one for the car :/
If the problem comes back again I'm just going to take it to Honda.
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