Pads for Track / Fast Road
02-11-2010, 02:40 AM
#21
UK Moderator
Me neither, proper cool downs/warm ups and patience before going out again are very important.
Keeping a good eye on the clock when on and off track is important too.
Keeping a good eye on the clock when on and off track is important too.
02-11-2010, 11:42 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by m1bjr,Feb 11 2010, 12:48 AM
I would guess those are carbon based pucks like the XP series Simon.
And mated to those rotors that are also 'high carbon' content you have essentially the same as on my R26 fronts.
The bias is designed into the car, nothing you can really do to it in a major way.
Split circuits mean it would need a lot of pipe work to add a bias box or valve.
The rears only get hotter because they are not vented, or have much cooling air to them
But yes, losing fronts mean you are much harder on the pedal than you realise.
So you can't really change much about bias with pad choice, changing disk or caliper size would though.
And mated to those rotors that are also 'high carbon' content you have essentially the same as on my R26 fronts.
The bias is designed into the car, nothing you can really do to it in a major way.
Split circuits mean it would need a lot of pipe work to add a bias box or valve.
The rears only get hotter because they are not vented, or have much cooling air to them
But yes, losing fronts mean you are much harder on the pedal than you realise.
So you can't really change much about bias with pad choice, changing disk or caliper size would though.
Ducting is something I must look into, had a quick look the other night at some DIY ducting, looks simple enough.
I am hoping to run 4 pots on the front and vented rears which should help things along in keeping cool back there and might help with the bias slightly.
How dusty are the XP10's and how easy is the dust to clean off? Not that i'm overly fussed just more curious than anything.
02-11-2010, 11:47 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by m1bjr,Feb 11 2010, 11:33 AM
I follow a very anal cool down regime which clearly helps as I havent warped a disc yet.
A full lap braking on engine where possible.
Stop in pits no handbrake, and roll car a foot every 20 secs or so for a couple of minutes.
This keeps the caliper moving about the cooling rotors, so helping more even cooling in the pits.
And warm them up gently!
Easy to warp by stamping the pedal on a cold day at 120mph...
A full lap braking on engine where possible.
Stop in pits no handbrake, and roll car a foot every 20 secs or so for a couple of minutes.
This keeps the caliper moving about the cooling rotors, so helping more even cooling in the pits.
And warm them up gently!
Easy to warp by stamping the pedal on a cold day at 120mph...
The only thing I don't do is push the car around once i've stopped it, it does make sense though.
What ever i'm doing doesn't seem to be working, sometimes I do two cool down laps but i've still managed to warp them.
How long do you normally stay out for?
02-11-2010, 01:02 PM
#24
I stay out until the tyres go off and then plow though cones like Rockingham
Should know better than to keep driving on butter tyres, but I'm an addict lol!
At airfields where its rock hard on brakes, I drive out of the pits and down the feeder roads for a few minutes
Then stay in for 30min at least, often more.
Dusting on the Reno (XP10) is no worse than Honda with Ferodos.
In fact the reno is a DD for Karen so gets cleaned less.
I find the DS2500 very corrosive, the XP10 less so.
Steve
Should know better than to keep driving on butter tyres, but I'm an addict lol!
At airfields where its rock hard on brakes, I drive out of the pits and down the feeder roads for a few minutes
Then stay in for 30min at least, often more.
Dusting on the Reno (XP10) is no worse than Honda with Ferodos.
In fact the reno is a DD for Karen so gets cleaned less.
I find the DS2500 very corrosive, the XP10 less so.
Steve
02-11-2010, 01:45 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Haha I'm not staying out too long then, I try and stay out for 20 mins max or until my brakes are feeling a bit iffy.
I also find the DS2500 very corrosive, if i don't clean the wheels once a week it stains.
If the XP10's are less corrosive they get my vote just on that.
I also find the DS2500 very corrosive, if i don't clean the wheels once a week it stains.
If the XP10's are less corrosive they get my vote just on that.
02-11-2010, 01:56 PM
#26
Originally Posted by RedUn,Feb 11 2010, 11:45 PM
Haha I'm not staying out too long then, I try and stay out for 20 mins max or until my brakes are feeling a bit iffy.
I also find the DS2500 very corrosive, if i don't clean the wheels once a week it stains.
If the XP10's are less corrosive they get my vote just on that.
I also find the DS2500 very corrosive, if i don't clean the wheels once a week it stains.
If the XP10's are less corrosive they get my vote just on that.
What are similar front carbon pads costing guys?
Like CL or the dixcel offerings?
02-11-2010, 02:18 PM
#27
UK Moderator
Dixcels are £125-165 depending on the type and front/rear. You need the discs as well though. See here for prices https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=731613
02-11-2010, 02:25 PM
#28
Somewhat cheaper than the Carbotechs.
I know they seem to really last, but its just the thought of a big outlay which is why I plumped for Ferodo last time.
And with a view to selling the car it seemed ott.
S.
I know they seem to really last, but its just the thought of a big outlay which is why I plumped for Ferodo last time.
And with a view to selling the car it seemed ott.
S.
02-11-2010, 02:35 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by lovegroova,Feb 11 2010, 11:32 PM
My sneaky "switching them for OEM" trick makes them last even longer 