Lusaka_MG

Not an expert but I wonder if it could be a suspension problem. Presumably the above causes the strut and spring to load/unload as the weight of the car moves back or forward quickly and if one them is not responding as the other is maybe causes a pull.

Someone who knows more about suspension may be able to suggest why or if the above is feasible.

Mans Best

If the new tyre hasn't got sufficient miles on it - 1-200 miles - then there will definitely be a performance difference. I assume they are both the same diameter as the other tyre is not very old.

After that, I would check
tyre pressures
geometry (essential after a rebuild and the settings should at least be symmetrical) - if it can't align within the tolerances there's some damage not been repaired or it's not been doen correctly
did you use new parts for the repair or secondhand?
did the repairer check the subframe for damage or twisting? These can be straightened out, but not if too badly bent

mikey k

with all the above - good summary!

Ready S2k

Thanks all - managed to check the tyre pressures before driving 500 miles this weekend - the left rear was at 29BSI and the right still at factory set 32BSI.

Pumped up the errant tyre and the problem went away

In answer to the question on parts - the replacements were definitely brand new - the car was only 2000 miles/2 months old when the Mrs pranged it

mikey k

I'll bet that was a relief!
Having said that you might be better measuring in psi

Nick Graves

What's wrong with blows per square inch?

(You need strong cheek muscles though!)

Ready S2k

Oops - always get confused with that Imperial rubbish!

UK Paul

There you go...saved 4 trips to Honda while they measured Geometry, checked dampers, tightened roll bars, removed foam strips that they should have done first time etc, etc....

ask the experts on here first