plastic91

well, seems like i'll need to get under the car and add more oil in then...

one thing i don't quite understand is that, if the car is flat, the most anyone can fill up is only as high as the level of the filler hole, correct? or is there another filling up point?

Didn't use a torque wrench, just guesstimated. i have now placed some paper beneath the car to monitor any possible leak.

One thing i notice today is that the oil filter i fitted the other day seem to have a very slight leak, i'm suspecting it's because i've only hand tighten it. another issue is, i can't seem to notice the vtec crossover now. are they related somehow due to issuficient oil pressure??? i've checked my oil level, and it is still full as before....

any particular way i can check that my vtec is working properly? will the check engine light come on if vtec doesn't engage?

m1bjr

I would suggest you don't do any more work on this car, instead get it to a garage.

fluffyninja

Don't suppose anyone has any photos of the gearbox oil drain/level bolts along with sizes?

Found a couple of threads spec'ing the oil but couldn't see anything about the spanner/socket sizes required. Going to do my oil changes over the next few weeks for engine and transmission (actually was going to do them all today but dopey here forgot to get the gaskets for the transmission plugs so will have to do them in a week or so)

I know my way around a spanner so not too worried about the job just don't want to get the car up on stands only to find I'm missing something and got to get it back down to go to Hellfrauds/Honda (only car I have so no beater to run errands like that in)

Just a quick note. IF TRAINED PROPERLY you'd be amazed how close to nominal torque you can get using the correct spanner (i.e. not a slider/socket set)

westmount

Thank you for the excellent info.

I'm also going to try and do my first Oil and Filter. Just a question about how you jacked up the car and placed it on the Axel stands. Did you start with the drivers front right and work you way back to the drivers rear wheel? I'd like to know the sequence that you used to place on the stands.

And any other reccomendations so not to get oil all over the garage floor ? Guess lots of newspapers and some luck ..

Cheers,
Howard

plastic91

Depending on how low is your car and how low is your trolley jack, you might need a 'ramp'.

I have made up 4 small 'ramps' using timber planks. I have always used the front jacking point (picture on page2), and the rear jacking point (differential). Starting with the front first.

Yup, newspaper is a good solution. If you're working outdoors, take into consideration of the wind. Also, when you first undo the bolt, make sure you place the oil container slightly further away from the hole to account for longer projection due to pressure. And you'll have to move the container accordingly to the oil level unless your catch area is very huge.

HTH

loftust

Get a trolley jack if you don't have one...it also helps to have two scissor jacks.

Using the two scissors, jack up the front equally on both sides 'til you can get the trolley jack underneath the front subframe jacking point...but only until you can just get the axle stands under the front jacking points on the sills.

Use the trolley jack on the diff to raise the rear. Place axles stands under the rear of the sills, in the correct points.

Raise the front/rear independently 'til you're happy with the height.

Place something strong/tall enough (wheels/tyres are good) under the middle of the sills so that if the car falls off the stands, you're not crushed (I sh1t you not).

ONLY jack the car on a flat surface...people have died by not doing this correctly.

HTH