Oil change
#12
As a few others have said, it'll make naff all difference either way. Providing it's not going to be mothballed for a decade, a few months won't do any harm whatsoever. A GOOD quality oil should also cling to mechanical components like the old rockers etc so it should be sound.
I'd opt for Millers CFS over the Castrol edge though, over rated and just exceeds API a3/b4 spec's, compared to CFS.
I'd opt for Millers CFS over the Castrol edge though, over rated and just exceeds API a3/b4 spec's, compared to CFS.
#13
Registered User
A3/B4 is ACEA not API. In any case ACEA is basic bread and butter stuff. The OEM specs are the difficult ones to get. Millers CFS has none. Most of the ACEA tests are Diesel engines too so hardly relevant for an S2000
Would be interest to know how you managed to compare the two though to be able to come out with statements like that. A full ACEA program is over £200k to run so I doubt you have ran two.
Also 'Castrol EDGE' comes in many different formulations so, again, I'm not sure what your source is to say it just scrapes by the limits?
Would be interest to know how you managed to compare the two though to be able to come out with statements like that. A full ACEA program is over £200k to run so I doubt you have ran two.
Also 'Castrol EDGE' comes in many different formulations so, again, I'm not sure what your source is to say it just scrapes by the limits?
#14
Registered User
Oil clinging to metal isn't ideal if it is full of water and acidic combustion by products.
As mentioned good practice is to fill the fuel tank and change the oil before a car sits up.
As mentioned good practice is to fill the fuel tank and change the oil before a car sits up.
#15
A3/B4 is ACEA not API. In any case ACEA is basic bread and butter stuff. The OEM specs are the difficult ones to get. Millers CFS has none. Most of the ACEA tests are Diesel engines too so hardly relevant for an S2000
Would be interest to know how you managed to compare the two though to be able to come out with statements like that. A full ACEA program is over £200k to run so I doubt you have ran two.
Also 'Castrol EDGE' comes in many different formulations so, again, I'm not sure what your source is to say it just scrapes by the limits?
Would be interest to know how you managed to compare the two though to be able to come out with statements like that. A full ACEA program is over £200k to run so I doubt you have ran two.
Also 'Castrol EDGE' comes in many different formulations so, again, I'm not sure what your source is to say it just scrapes by the limits?
With regards to the specifications of Castrol, This was coming from the mouth of a former R&D technician there, only going off what he said so don't chew my head off.
Based on personal experience, No idea how or why It was so poor, When I ran it in my old car, oil would weep past turbo seals and would resemble something of an oil refinery coming out of the exhaust, used 2 litres of the stuff in 1k miles so from then on I've never trusted the stuff CFS, never had that issue at all.
#16
Registered User
The oil is meant to take protect and remove all the crap your engine produces, that's why it goes black.
And moisture won't be a problem because if the oil covers the engine, it can't oxidise.
In terms of leaving it sitting, driving a car short distances is going to make things far worse because the engine will be constantly enveloped in moisture that couldn't have been evaporated.
The only issues I have ever seen that have been oil related are:
Low oil
Too thick oil costing power
To good an oil glazing the bores
Overheating oil breaking down
Non serviced car where the oil had turned to tar.
I have never seen an engine corroded from being left in oil.
#17
Registered User
I can assure you plenty of engines rust when sat for a long time or ran in conditions that promote water dilution. Ethanol is the sump isnt ideal. Oil won't stay on an engine for months on end, it will drain down - particularly on camshafts.
MBs last race oil had 7% fuel dilution and that was on a race track where oil temps 'should' boil off the oil.
MBs last race oil had 7% fuel dilution and that was on a race track where oil temps 'should' boil off the oil.
#18
Registered User
Grammar and spelling pedantry... not long done a night shift after that was done posted...
With regards to the specifications of Castrol, This was coming from the mouth of a former R&D technician there, only going off what he said so don't chew my head off.
Based on personal experience, No idea how or why It was so poor, When I ran it in my old car, oil would weep past turbo seals and would resemble something of an oil refinery coming out of the exhaust, used 2 litres of the stuff in 1k miles so from then on I've never trusted the stuff CFS, never had that issue at all.
With regards to the specifications of Castrol, This was coming from the mouth of a former R&D technician there, only going off what he said so don't chew my head off.
Based on personal experience, No idea how or why It was so poor, When I ran it in my old car, oil would weep past turbo seals and would resemble something of an oil refinery coming out of the exhaust, used 2 litres of the stuff in 1k miles so from then on I've never trusted the stuff CFS, never had that issue at all.
Your experience may be a relection of what you observed and is fair enough, I cannot disagree with that. I was simply wondering what made you think what you did in you earlier post.
#19
Tommi,
It is supposed that oil needs replacing after a year even if you do not do enough miles to change it. Although i believe it is not true and you can leave them much more you should be fine by spring time. So do not change them
It is supposed that oil needs replacing after a year even if you do not do enough miles to change it. Although i believe it is not true and you can leave them much more you should be fine by spring time. So do not change them
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