Oil?!?
01-19-2012, 02:28 AM
#12
01-19-2012, 02:40 AM
#14
Different properties within the oil. Its absolutley fine for standard non high-revving engines.
Oil is deemed personal for choice, but Oilman may be along to tell you why lets say Halfords, or Asda's own brand is considerably different to Castrol / Shell / Silkolene for example.
If I ran a cheap shed, i'd use Halfrauds stuff.
From what i've read, the cheapo halfords studd, albeit refined from Esso i think, is the "not as well refined" stuff. It may degrade quicker, ceratinly more so with high revving performance engines.
Steer clear... if you've been using it, drop it out the sump and give your car liquid gold!
Here's an Oilman quote last year regarding Silkolene Pro S, and mention about different oils....
""Pro S is top end stuff, as good as oil gets. Gally, I can't really answer your question as apart from Mobil 1, the rest are brands that produce several different oils of varying quality. Mobil 1 is pretty good, a proper synthetic, the step below the top end oils like the Pro S
All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.
Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.
Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:
Group I
These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.
Group II
These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.
Group III
These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.
Group IV
These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules. (Mobil 1 is a group IV)
Group V
These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively. (Pro S has a Group V base)
It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.
Oil is deemed personal for choice, but Oilman may be along to tell you why lets say Halfords, or Asda's own brand is considerably different to Castrol / Shell / Silkolene for example.
If I ran a cheap shed, i'd use Halfrauds stuff.
From what i've read, the cheapo halfords studd, albeit refined from Esso i think, is the "not as well refined" stuff. It may degrade quicker, ceratinly more so with high revving performance engines.
Steer clear... if you've been using it, drop it out the sump and give your car liquid gold!
Here's an Oilman quote last year regarding Silkolene Pro S, and mention about different oils....
""Pro S is top end stuff, as good as oil gets. Gally, I can't really answer your question as apart from Mobil 1, the rest are brands that produce several different oils of varying quality. Mobil 1 is pretty good, a proper synthetic, the step below the top end oils like the Pro S
All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.
Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.
Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:
Group I
These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.
Group II
These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.
Group III
These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.
Group IV
These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules. (Mobil 1 is a group IV)
Group V
These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively. (Pro S has a Group V base)
It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.
01-19-2012, 02:48 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by sound_wave' timestamp='1326971014' post='21331277
Mobil is a brand most avoid, as the older cars like to drink it. Castrol Edge is a good buy.
I've just gone for Motul for my next service - you'll get that for a decent price on Opie the next time you do an oil change.
Is your car on MY04+? If so, oil usage isn't something you should be worried about, but still good practice to keep a bottle, just in case!
HTH
Andy
I've just gone for Motul for my next service - you'll get that for a decent price on Opie the next time you do an oil change.
Is your car on MY04+? If so, oil usage isn't something you should be worried about, but still good practice to keep a bottle, just in case!
HTH
Andy
Si
01-19-2012, 02:57 AM
#16
Member
Originally Posted by ogg2000' timestamp='1326972870' post='21331313
What's the reason for the Halford's being deemed unaccepatble?
Oil is deemed personal for choice, but Oilman may be along to tell you why lets say Halfords, or Asda's own brand is considerably different to Castrol / Shell / Silkolene for example.
If I ran a cheap shed, i'd use Halfrauds stuff.
From what i've read, the cheapo stuff, albeit refined from perhaps Castrol themselves, is the "not as well refined" stuff. It may degrade quicker, ceratinly more so with high revving performance engines.
Steer clear... if you've been using it, drop it out the sump and give your car liquid gold!
I'd be careful of stating stuff on oil without fact as there's too much of it around!
01-19-2012, 03:01 AM
#17
Originally Posted by s2k4tony' timestamp='1326973230' post='21331320
[quote name='ogg2000' timestamp='1326972870' post='21331313']
What's the reason for the Halford's being deemed unaccepatble?
What's the reason for the Halford's being deemed unaccepatble?
Oil is deemed personal for choice, but Oilman may be along to tell you why lets say Halfords, or Asda's own brand is considerably different to Castrol / Shell / Silkolene for example.
If I ran a cheap shed, i'd use Halfrauds stuff.
From what i've read, the cheapo stuff, albeit refined from perhaps Castrol themselves, is the "not as well refined" stuff. It may degrade quicker, ceratinly more so with high revving performance engines.
Steer clear... if you've been using it, drop it out the sump and give your car liquid gold!
I'd be careful of stating stuff on oil without fact as there's too much of it around!
[/quote]
MB... read edited post. Plenty of stuff from Oilman on car forums about oil quality. And plenty of times that this kind of subject has been voiced. Understanding refining methods is the case, not about whether it meets specification on the bottle.
Do you use Halfords oil?
01-19-2012, 03:06 AM
#19
5w40 is too thin for winter use - that's a summer oil. 5w30 is what i'd use for winter. If it hasn't had an oil change in your ownership, make it the first thing you do when you get the car. Mine gets changed twice a year, before summer and before winter irrespective of mileage but mine is my daily hack / thrash 
As for > 04 cars not using a drop, that's also not correct - the more you VTEC it and the more you drive it, it will eventually use oil although it will consume a LOT less than a pre 04 car.
oh and ANY oil of around the right grade is much better than low or none I can see the point in being anal about it from day one if you bought the car but by 66k miles, just fit reasonable stuff and keep the levels right.
As for > 04 cars not using a drop, that's also not correct - the more you VTEC it and the more you drive it, it will eventually use oil although it will consume a LOT less than a pre 04 car.
oh and ANY oil of around the right grade is much better than low or none
I can see the point in being anal about it from day one if you bought the car but by 66k miles, just fit reasonable stuff and keep the levels right.
01-19-2012, 03:16 AM
#20
Member
UF - 5w40 isn't too "thin" for winter, it's just got a higher cold start viscosity (less mobile) than something like a 0W oil.
a 5W 30 has the same cold start viscosity as a 5w40, but it's viscosity at operating temps is lower.
a 5W 30 has the same cold start viscosity as a 5w40, but it's viscosity at operating temps is lower.