New Engine only running on 3!
09-25-2008, 07:33 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by pistonbroke,Sep 25 2008, 03:09 PM
I think the problem is electrical, rather than mechanical.
09-25-2008, 08:12 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Hypersonik,Sep 25 2008, 04:33 PM
Whilst I would love to agree, if the mechanic says that there is no compression on 4, I can't see that being an electrical fault
Bearing in mind that the same mechanic thought that the problem might be a bad hydraulic lifter
i'd like to see compression test results before i hung my hat on that conclusion.
09-25-2008, 08:14 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by lower,Sep 25 2008, 04:12 PM
The mechanic has done a 'thumb' compression test.
Bearing in mind that the same mechanic thought that the problem might be a bad hydraulic lifter i'd like to see compression test results before i hung my hat on that conclusion.
Bearing in mind that the same mechanic thought that the problem might be a bad hydraulic lifter
i'd like to see compression test results before i hung my hat on that conclusion.
Still, do my test about taking the valve cover off and manually turning the engine. Take you 20 mins a then you will know.
If you think it's an injector fault, get a multimeter on the injectors.
09-25-2008, 08:15 AM
#24
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The mechanic has done a 'thumb' compression test.
Bearing in mind that the same mechanic thought that the problem might be a bad hydraulic lifter eek3.gif i'd like to see compression test results before i hung my hat on that conclusion.
Bearing in mind that the same mechanic thought that the problem might be a bad hydraulic lifter eek3.gif i'd like to see compression test results before i hung my hat on that conclusion.
09-25-2008, 09:55 AM
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Just heard from mechanic. Been running perfectly all day. Gave it some "serious stick" and it performed "beautifully". Engine has been flushed, oil filter and oil changed. Hes gonna keep it tommorrow for further investigations.
09-25-2008, 10:48 AM
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Could it be bad wiring? Or bad Earthing
Did your mechanic change over the fuelling system and the coilpacks from your old engine or did you get the complete engine and just bolted it in?
As stupid as it sounds i have come across a few VTEC lumps that actually perform better at higher mileagues. Some of my friends are adamant that you need to 'open the engines up' to get the very best out of them and a few of them regularly take out their b18's and h22a's etc and give them beans and so far touch wood nothing to worry about. So run it in, give it some now and then. Not a very technical answer but hey you never know.
Did your mechanic change over the fuelling system and the coilpacks from your old engine or did you get the complete engine and just bolted it in?
As stupid as it sounds i have come across a few VTEC lumps that actually perform better at higher mileagues. Some of my friends are adamant that you need to 'open the engines up' to get the very best out of them and a few of them regularly take out their b18's and h22a's etc and give them beans and so far touch wood nothing to worry about. So run it in, give it some now and then. Not a very technical answer but hey you never know.
09-25-2008, 10:55 AM
#27
Bollocks; too late.
Flushing a VTEC engine's a bad idea because of the crud dislodged getting trapped in the VTEC bits.
Really needs proper investigation of 'bent valvestem syndrome', which is what I suspect is causing a lot of these Jimi the Exploder engines.
Having said that, a loose connector or the EMU learning seems a more likely explanation of the tantrum.
I'd not rely on the dyke compression test, personally. But if a proper one revealed no squirt, it's really bendy valve test time.
Flushing a VTEC engine's a bad idea because of the crud dislodged getting trapped in the VTEC bits.
Really needs proper investigation of 'bent valvestem syndrome', which is what I suspect is causing a lot of these Jimi the Exploder engines.
Having said that, a loose connector or the EMU learning seems a more likely explanation of the tantrum.
I'd not rely on the dyke compression test, personally. But if a proper one revealed no squirt, it's really bendy valve test time.
09-25-2008, 10:57 AM
#28
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Hes looking in to the wiring loom as it came with the new engine. He has spoken to Honda who told him they have had issues with looms causing problems like this
Could it be bad wiring? Or bad Earthing
Did your mechanic change over the fuelling system and the coilpacks from your old engine or did you get the complete engine and just bolted it in?
Did your mechanic change over the fuelling system and the coilpacks from your old engine or did you get the complete engine and just bolted it in?
