Kobe

if you take the number that the ECU "sees" via the honda sensor - then the numbers in the table seem consistent..

I don't know how much is the honda sensor itself - is just picking up the temp of the manifold itself..rather than the average temp of the actual mass of air traveling through it..

I never actually checked where the sensor was.. can somebody point it out?

and I agree on heat exchange.. if you were wanting to heat air.. passing it through the manifold wouldn't be that useful.. though it does get incredibly hot..so the differential is significant..

however in the end, the ECU alters it's program based on that sensor readings.. something is impacting that sensor..

Paper Lawyer

Well he's fooked now


Sounds very interesting though

Sniper_S2K

Well spotted , yes the rad and parts are water cooling parts for a computer .
A PC runs on 12V as does a car it made sense.
The rad is supposed to be good for 300W... i have another one if required.

The most agressive test will be the idle test which is nice because
i can test this without having the electronics wired into the car.
At idle the throttle is almost closed , cool air is restricted , no
air enters the bay and as you can see from the data the temps
get very toasty.

It would be great if the mod slowed the temp rise significantly.
It would be excellent if maintained an almost flat temperature
differential to ambient.

Im pretty excited about this and its fun

In the past people such as XVIPER when investigating
air temp through to throttle body did not measure what
was happening in the manifold itself using the IAT sensor
. So data only exists regarding pipe temperatures. His data
showed that insulation of the air piping and a rad mat was
a good move. This is already done on my car.

Oh and as far as dropping temps in the manifold having
a positive impact this has stated in several posts regardng
the hondata insulator. Just disconnecting the coolant lines
after the insulator is installed allows even more temperature
drop and has been shown to allow more spark advance.

I have some more possible idea's up my sleave but this
is enough for now. As this will depend on the outcome of
this testing.

Laters

Ps. before you all get too excited its an experiment and it
may not work!!

S.

lower

so the critical point is exactly what temperature the the honda sensor sees, ie the manifold temp or the inlet charge temp.

i would expect the manifold temperature to rise significantly at idle, as you lose the cooling effect of the intake charge going through it. But as the air pressure in the manifold at idle is very low, the temperature transfer to the intake charge is also going to be low.

That makes me thing that the kangarooing might be more related to a sensor issue rather than the actual intake charge temp.

Sniper_S2K

I must admit, i have started to consider other possibilities myself.

However one thing that must be considered is that since the
since the air pressure in the manifold is low the air velocity
will be low giving more chance for the manifold to heat the air.

Unless im missing something..

MB

CF inlet manifold - job done

There was one for sale a while back.

At idle the TB is totally closed (IIRC), air is pumped in by primary airpump, behind the TB.

Souds good though.

Did you look at heat reflective lagging / insulation? There is a lot of radiatingheat in there too, as well as that transferred from the head to the inlet manifold.

MB

lower

heat transfer rates drop the lower the air pressure. Hence at idle when the intake pressure is extremely low because the throttle body is totally or very nearly closed, even if the inlet manifold is at coolant temps ie 100 degrees ish then the amount of heat transferred into the inlet air from the inlet manifold itself will be very low.

I would expect there to be much more of a problem with the inlet sucking in hot air that has been through the radiator and that causing a kangarooing problem.

however, this is all speculative and not based on any measurement so i'm not wanting to piss on anybody's fireworks.

eSeM

Doesn't the AUT plate block off some of the vents on the air guide that help cool the top of the engine bay?

I know that since I did the coolant bypass last weekend my manifold only gets lukewarm after a 15min blast.

Sniper_S2K

Thanks for all replying , damn i love the UK forums
Just collected some test data , i may give it a go after work
later. If so ill try and post the results. it will be a quick post
though.

Interesting after getting home this lunch time and letting the
car sit , inlet manifold soaking up heat. When i started
my measurements the temp was 50 degree's this
increased to 57 degree's after 15 mins of idling.

Dark Blue Mark,
neverheard of a CF manifold is that expensive?
And yes i have done the lagging insulation thing.

StevenM, yup my manifold is luke warm too after
i did that bypass. I guessing 25 degree's on a fast run
of course no data yet. Ill get the data for the Insulator
and TB coolant bypass next week in the same format
as before. The rad plate does block the vents at the
front and channels the air into the K&N FIPK box.
Could cold air entering the engine bay cool the TB
more... maybe.

Lower thanks for the education.

Sniper.

Sniper_S2K

UPDATED the original text with results