GreenmanS2000

You should be on bargain hunt!

Did you know the solution to the emissions problem or did you get lucky?

rhauri

Blimey, that is a cheap S2000.

You could have stuck with the OEM 16's and just put some Toyo R1R's on them (gives you a similar contact patch to 17s with Bridgestone due to the shoulder profile) and you'd be close to dead on a grand then!

Floppy

Yep, after selling the hard top and private plate.
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Outstanding
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Thanks

I don't have enough fake tan to compete with David Dickinson I'm afraid

The place that put it through the MOT did a basic emissions test without entering the vehicle age, mileage and model so the machine didn't adjust the pass parameters accordingly. It went through emissions fine once that was done. I didn't know what the emissions problem was when I bought it but I suspected it might have either been cold when it was tested or it was something to do with the random after market manifold it has on it. I suppose I was just lucky but having had 4 S2000's varying from MY00 to MY04 I knew it couldn't be much.


I did think of that but the OEM 16's looked so shoddy that I'd have had to pay about £150 for a refurb and the OEM 17's weren't much more than that. The NS2R's I've fitted looked seriously meaty and from reading up it seems they come up a size bigger as well, so effectively a 235 and a 265.

Floppy

I've had the geo looked at today and even after fitting the coilovers it was pretty even on all corners...which was a good thing as the front near side castor was seized and so was the rear n/s camber!

I asked if the toe could be placed as neutral as possible as I like it to be progressive rather than snappy and this is the best they could achieve. The only thing I'm a bit concerned about is the difference in the rear camber now but I'm hoping that someone with a bit more knowledge can tell me whether that will make a huge difference or not to the handling?

Untitled by Alex Collins, on Flickr




Driving the car properly since having the bearings and MOT done its developed a very ominous noise from the back end though. Its like a clack, clack in a similar way to a knackered diff sounds but does also make a grating noise when I apply the brakes.

My thought are its either the bearings that have just been done due to the hub flange having a lot of wear, a sticking caliper or carrier with a pad clonking about in it or the diff is on its way out. If its the latter then thankfully I have a spare that I never sold from my written off S. Its back to the garage today for it to be looked at over the weekend...so no floppy fun for me on the Druids run I wouldn't think

lovegroova

That a very small rear camber difference of 11' (don't forget that the minutes only go up to 59) so I'd be amazed if it had any significant effect.

I'd be more worried about running zero rear toe, it's going to be very slidey like that. I'd recommend a minimum of 10' per side.

Nick Graves

Yeah, with the soggy sidewalls on Toyos, you might find the rear a bit squirrelly under braking. Still, if it's mainly track use, some like it that way.

Even 15 minutes total would be better, but you don't want too much otherwise it goes all stick/snap/stick/snap etc.

Floppy

Thanks for the advice Simon/Nick. I'll see how I get on with it over the next couple of weeks (If I drive it because of the clacking noise) and I can always have it re-adjusted on the rear for a little bit of toe in. I didn't think about that and thought thats what I had before but I might well be wrong. I just didn't want the stick/snap effect like you've said Nick.

Not sure what the side wall will be like yet, they're Nankang NS2R not Toyos

lovegroova

As you've track day tyres, then 5' to 10' per side will be fine.

For reference,I think I have 15' per side with my RE002s and you saw how controllable that was.

rhauri

Fair do's!

Yeah, Nankangs have a square shoulder much like the Toyos.

The geo is looking pretty healthy - christ, another big expense escaped! Can you adjust the O/S/R camber? I'd prob up it to get a touch closer to the N/S/R - but if not, you'll probably struggle to tell a difference anyway.

As the others have said, for a more stable rear end - dial in a bit of toe-in at the back.

The R1Rs are pretty damn firm from my understanding (they're a 1B rated tyre like the 595RSRs / NS2Rs) - I think you're thinking of other Toyos like the old Proxes or maybe the T1Rs.

mdb_75

As the others have said your rear camber's pretty close side to side, I've got 2deg each side and it works well on track although I'd like a touch more to get the tyres to wear more even.

As for the front I'd have thought you could do with more camber if you can get it. My front's set at 1.8 degrees, the most I can get and the outside of the tyres still wear quickly on track. I'd like 2degrees at least if I could get it. This is all with RS-R tyres on CR springs and shocks.