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Monte-Carlo or Bust

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Old 08-02-2010, 09:13 AM
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DAY SIX Thursday 22nd July: Sarlat-le-Caneda to Sainte Enimie.

I never thought I would say this whilst on holiday, but it had rained overnight and rain was forecast for later this morning. “Goody!” I said. “It will not be so hot today”.

Mind you, at breakfast it was still a muggy mid 20s. This was much cooler than the day we visited Oradour when the engine temperature gauge was still mid-point on the scale when we left after two hours looking around. Also, and this has never happened to me before, the adhesive on the headlight beam adaptors melted, and they fell off! Anyone who has used these would know how difficult normally they are to remove once you return home.



We had one last look at our hotel before moving on. We loved this hotel, and hoped that the others that we have booked come up to this standard.

Our plan today was to drive via Rocamadour and the Millau Valley to our chateau hotel in the Tarn Valley.

For those unfamiliar with Rocamadour, it is an entire city built up the face of a high cliff. It never ceases to amaze me that the French will build on, in and under cliffs, without any apprehension that something may move! In contrast, in the mountains, every kilometre or so is a sign warning of rock falls, and there was certainly a lot of rubble lying on most roads.







We found a good hotel for a coffee break and did some sightseeing before moving on. By now the rain had stopped, so it was looking good for the run through the millau Valley.

We have driven over the Millau Valley viaduct in the past, but from up there you see very little apart from the towns and villages which lie below, and you also pay a toll fee! It is also difficult to access the Visitor Centre. As a result, our plan was to arrive and leave via the mountains by driving through the valley itself.

This was our first sighting of the viaduct as we dropped down into the valley.



I know that many members on the forum express a desire to visit this area, but they will find that the Visitor Centre is a great disappointment. It is right under the viaduct, so it is difficult to admire the structure, the car park is small and crowded, and the only facilities are toilets, vending machines and a small exhibition.

It is impossible to take good pictures there, so the next two were taken on the approach road to the centre.





The following two pictures were taken as we left the valley behind, and climbed into the mountains again.





We were left with a fairly short run to our very posh chateau hotel adjoining the Tarn River. However on the way, there were sights to see like Le Chaos de Montpellier-le-Vieux, which are the most bizarre rock formations you will ever see!

The following two pictures are general views of the mountains approaching the Tarn Valley. Narrow roads, with a drop of two, three hundred feet, and no barriers at the side of the road concentrated the mind. One of the problem with roads like this is the driver can't admire the views as he has to concentrate on his driving. And the passenger can't admire them as they think the driver may not be concentrating on his driving!!





We finally arrived at the Chateau de la Caze, a famous Michelin starred Chateau Hotel, in bright sunshine.





We did so much in the Tarn Gorges the next day, that it will take some time to sort the story out. Hang in there, though, as I said before, the pictures just get better and better.

'Bye for now!
Old 08-02-2010, 11:39 AM
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More lovely pics Dennis.

I haven't returned to southern France since my exchange trip so have never seen that awesome Millau viaduct and what an arresting sight the city of Rocamadour clinging to the cliff is.

You're definitely not slumming it, you have chosen some wonderful places to stay.

Looking forward to your next post. I stayed in Revel, wonder if you went anywhere near there?
Old 08-02-2010, 12:44 PM
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Pont du Gard is very impressive, a real must if your down in the Nimes area.

Did you go on the steam train at Martel when you were down near Padirac ?

I also was in those hill top gardens across from Castelnaud a few weeks ago, very impressive to say the least and a complete ruin only some 10 - 15 years ago.

Looks like you had a good time in the mediaeval market at Sarlat.

Is the road still closed at Roque Gageac ?

I'm not stalking you....honest

Have fun !
Old 08-02-2010, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by LTB,Aug 2 2010, 08:44 PM
Pont du Gard is very impressive, a real must if your down in the Nimes area.

Did you go on the steam train at Martel when you were down near Padirac ?

I also was in those hill top gardens across from Castelnaud a few weeks ago, very impressive to say the least and a complete ruin only some 10 - 15 years ago.

Looks like you had a good time in the mediaeval market at Sarlat.

Is the road still closed at Roque Gageac ?

I'm not stalking you....honest

Have fun !
Hi LTB,

Pont du Gard: all will be revealed in due course!

Nope. Unfortunately we did not have time to visit Martel.

Yes, it was remarkable to see the gardens at Marqueyssac in all their splendour, and to realise that a few years ago they were completely uncared for.

Don't know about the road at Roque Gageac.

Our problem was that there was so much to see, and not enough time to do it all! We had a list of 'must do', and a list of 'possibly do', and unfortunately most of the possibles lost out.
Old 08-03-2010, 12:33 PM
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Dennis, a great inspiration and insight. Loving the detailed commentary. Keep the photos coming
Old 08-03-2010, 06:09 PM
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Wonderful pictures, very much enjoying this holiday blog. I went on a similar trip several years ago, well, made it as far as the Tarn Gorge, with 4 other friends and two cars, one of which was a Monte Carlo blue S2000 (Sadly no longer around due to a rather bad collision with a central reservation courtesy of some black ice a few years ago)
Fantastic trip, and reading about your vacation has brought back great memories. The S was a brilliant car for the trip, roof down for the whole time, well, apart from when it reached over 40 degrees outside, and it's a journey I hope to make again in the not too distant future.
Looking forward to reading more on this post
Old 08-04-2010, 04:45 AM
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DAY SEVEN Friday 23rd July: Touring near Sainte Enimie.

Right! The more perceptive readers amongst you will have sussed out by now that we were not cost-cutting on hotel accommodation. That was because this was a special trip planned for my dear wife. The planning revolved around two ‘wants’! The first was to stay here at the Chateau de la Caze, and the second was to be in Avignon for the wonderful market that takes place there every Saturday (but, more of that later). In fact when I booked the chateau over three months ago, there was just the one room left, and because it was an isolated area I had gone for half-board.

Apolgies once again for the picture overload!

So, it was down the stairs (carefully) to admire the view at breakfast.





Fortunately, there was a filling station not far away, but this was the first garage we had seen without 98 Octane.



I had not realised how extensive the gorges were, and, because of the boat trip we had planned, we were only able to visit a small area. As you will see from the following pictures this is canoe country! There are a number of sites where you can hire all the equipment, and you just leave this at one of the hire operators sites further downstream. What look like beer kegs on the back of each canoe are actually waterproof, screw top containers for personal possessions. Were I fifty years younger, I would be planning to return next year to spend a week on the water. And, no we were not stalking the trio in the boats, but it just happened that that they we paddling at about the same speed as we were driving!















Shortly afterwards, we drove down to a very pretty village, La Cascade, on the edge of the river.



At this point a rather interesting moth (? I'm sure someone will come along shortly, and tell me what is was!) took a fancy to my car. Hi MQ! Perhaps I should put it in the other thread with all the creepy, crawlies?









There they go again, building things under a cliff! This is the local church, and I bet the first prayer is something along the lines of, "Dear Lord, please keep the cliff above my head safe!"

On our ‘must do’ list was a boat trip on the Tarn River using Les Bateliers Des Gorges du Tarn who are based in La Malene. This was a most memorable experience, and one we will remember for years to come. No, that is not my wife by the boat!





Ah! Honda! We’re in good hands!



We're off!







For once, French technology worked! This young lady was taking pictures of everything that passed her, and when we were back at the car park, we were able to find almost ten high quality pictures of our boat on the computers in their office.



Whao! This is more like it. We're overtaking the boat in front!













Part of the Gorge is floodlit at night, and we resolved to return after our evening meal.









This is quite a slick operation. After, maybe 10km, we reached the point where they lift the boat out of the water, onto a trailer behind a minibus, that takes you back to the car park. This was quite a 'buttock clenching' drive on narrow mountain roads (with a large trailer behind) at speeds I don't think I would have attempted! At the car park I could not resist saying to the driver, "Vous etes un rally driver". He just grinned.

This sign was on the bridge at La Malene, which crosses the Tarn River. Now. Be honest. What does it say to you? Yes, that's right! There's only one way to find out.







An interesting drive, but not 'tres difficile'. However the gradient on the hairpin bends, when turning right, was so steep that nayone with a lowered suspension would have bottomed out! After a very busy day we were grateful to return to the chateau for a swim before dressing for dinner.



What was that I said about building under cliffs?



After a rest it was down for dinner! Everthing was a bit 'twee' being Michelin starred. Each table had its own waiter, and they moved around as though they were on ball bearings. There where several courses, and you had a two minute description as to what you were about to eat! Presentation was the primary intent, maybe even above taste.



Then a wonderful drive at about 10pm, hood down, natch', to the viewpoint so see the Gorge floodlit. Once again the picture cannot do the scene justice!



Good night everyone.
Old 08-04-2010, 05:06 AM
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Really enjoyed reading that Dennis. I hadn't been paying attention in the early stages, but have drank it all in now (thus far). Looks like a fantastic trip.

The moth is a burnet moth. It seems to be their season in the UK at the moment, and there are thousands of them around, if you look in the right places.
Old 08-04-2010, 05:12 AM
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Wow, the Milau Viaduct is on our route in September and we are also going to do the in and out.

Loving the pictures and you certainly had some lovely scenes.
Old 08-04-2010, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GrittyShaker,Aug 4 2010, 02:06 PM
The moth is a burnet moth. It seems to be their season in the UK at the moment, and there are thousands of them around, if you look in the right places.
A six-spot burnet to be be precise. They are day flying moths.

More fantastic pics and an interesting commentary.

That's a beautiful bridge in the pic next to the moth and those hairpins!

What an elegant dining room in the chateau. The wall-covering looks a bit Puginesque to me.

I really admire your chutzpah Dennis.


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