Mobil 1 0w40 confused.com
12-01-2009, 07:50 AM
#21
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Thanks for all the help and advice guys. And thank you Gaspode for the link and search.
Phoned the garage back, manage to get them to order in Mobil Synt 5W-40 and should be getting what's left in the bottle for top ups.
Phoned the garage back, manage to get them to order in Mobil Synt 5W-40 and should be getting what's left in the bottle for top ups.
12-01-2009, 07:57 AM
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Mobil 1 is perfectly OK in the S2000
As somebody mentioned the 0W refers to something called the cold cranking viscocity of the oil. It's got very little to do with the protection it offers to the engine.
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me!
Sorry folks, but I’ve got to get technical. Viscosity is measured in standard units called ‘Centistokes’, names after a Victorian engineer, Sir George Stokes, who used to time ball bearings as they sank through oil. SAE 30 for example is from 9.3 to 12.5 Centistokes, and SAE 40 follows on at 12.5 to 16.3, although most SAE 40 oils are in the middle at about 14.
Now this is something most don’t realise: engines do not know what grade of oil they’re running on. They’re not clever enough! So an engine filled with 10W/40 will be running on a viscosity of 14 at 100C, but with a sump temperature of 90C its seeing a viscosity of 18, so as far as the engine is concerned it’s running on SAE 50. Likewise, at 110C, it’s down to 11 Centistokes so it ‘thinks’ it’s on a SAE 30! (Which is preferable.)
The lesson is, do not use power and fuel-wasting thick oils in cool climates. A decent 10W/40 or even thinner is perfectly OK unless you’re running a classic with wide clearances and a slow oil pump."
As somebody mentioned the 0W refers to something called the cold cranking viscocity of the oil. It's got very little to do with the protection it offers to the engine.
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me!
Sorry folks, but I’ve got to get technical. Viscosity is measured in standard units called ‘Centistokes’, names after a Victorian engineer, Sir George Stokes, who used to time ball bearings as they sank through oil. SAE 30 for example is from 9.3 to 12.5 Centistokes, and SAE 40 follows on at 12.5 to 16.3, although most SAE 40 oils are in the middle at about 14.
Now this is something most don’t realise: engines do not know what grade of oil they’re running on. They’re not clever enough! So an engine filled with 10W/40 will be running on a viscosity of 14 at 100C, but with a sump temperature of 90C its seeing a viscosity of 18, so as far as the engine is concerned it’s running on SAE 50. Likewise, at 110C, it’s down to 11 Centistokes so it ‘thinks’ it’s on a SAE 30! (Which is preferable.)
The lesson is, do not use power and fuel-wasting thick oils in cool climates. A decent 10W/40 or even thinner is perfectly OK unless you’re running a classic with wide clearances and a slow oil pump."
12-01-2009, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by aldfort,Dec 1 2009, 08:57 AM
Mobil 1 is perfectly OK in the S2000
As somebody mentioned the 0W refers to something called the cold cranking viscocity of the oil. It's got very little to do with the protection it offers to the engine.
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me!
Sorry folks, but I’ve got to get technical. Viscosity is measured in standard units called ‘Centistokes’, names after a Victorian engineer, Sir George Stokes, who used to time ball bearings as they sank through oil. SAE 30 for example is from 9.3 to 12.5 Centistokes, and SAE 40 follows on at 12.5 to 16.3, although most SAE 40 oils are in the middle at about 14.
Now this is something most don’t realise: engines do not know what grade of oil they’re running on. They’re not clever enough! So an engine filled with 10W/40 will be running on a viscosity of 14 at 100C, but with a sump temperature of 90C its seeing a viscosity of 18, so as far as the engine is concerned it’s running on SAE 50. Likewise, at 110C, it’s down to 11 Centistokes so it ‘thinks’ it’s on a SAE 30! (Which is preferable.)
The lesson is, do not use power and fuel-wasting thick oils in cool climates. A decent 10W/40 or even thinner is perfectly OK unless you’re running a classic with wide clearances and a slow oil pump."
As somebody mentioned the 0W refers to something called the cold cranking viscocity of the oil. It's got very little to do with the protection it offers to the engine.
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me!
Sorry folks, but I’ve got to get technical. Viscosity is measured in standard units called ‘Centistokes’, names after a Victorian engineer, Sir George Stokes, who used to time ball bearings as they sank through oil. SAE 30 for example is from 9.3 to 12.5 Centistokes, and SAE 40 follows on at 12.5 to 16.3, although most SAE 40 oils are in the middle at about 14.
Now this is something most don’t realise: engines do not know what grade of oil they’re running on. They’re not clever enough! So an engine filled with 10W/40 will be running on a viscosity of 14 at 100C, but with a sump temperature of 90C its seeing a viscosity of 18, so as far as the engine is concerned it’s running on SAE 50. Likewise, at 110C, it’s down to 11 Centistokes so it ‘thinks’ it’s on a SAE 30! (Which is preferable.)
The lesson is, do not use power and fuel-wasting thick oils in cool climates. A decent 10W/40 or even thinner is perfectly OK unless you’re running a classic with wide clearances and a slow oil pump."
For the people who missed my previous post, choose from Amsoil SSO 0w30 or RedLine 10w30. NOTHING comes close. Both are correct grade and available in the UK. If someone want to get technical go figure their chemical analysis.
12-02-2009, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Taseas,Dec 1 2009, 06:29 PM
Is that technical?
For the people who missed my previous post, choose from Amsoil SSO 0w30 or RedLine 10w30. NOTHING comes close. Both are correct grade and available in the UK. If someone want to get technical go figure their chemical analysis.
For the people who missed my previous post, choose from Amsoil SSO 0w30 or RedLine 10w30. NOTHING comes close. Both are correct grade and available in the UK. If someone want to get technical go figure their chemical analysis.
While I'm here though your assertion that Redline or Amsoil are "the best" is very hard to prove IRL. I assume your assertion is based on the formulation of the base stock esters used in the oil. However it is true that both makes are well regarded in racing circles. But there again racers tend to drain their oil after fairly short intervals unlike those of us who use our cars on the road and tend to keep the oil in the car for the specified interval.
12-02-2009, 04:18 AM
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FYI redline makes a straight 30w oil for "racing purposes". As for the street oil both formulations are superior. Not only they have better specs (the ones available in their websites) but there are many people who posted reports after sending oil to the lab for chemical analysis. I do not think that people here are that interested but in case they are they can check at bobistheoilguy. Anyway the proper weight for the s2k is 30 and the two products that i mentioned are hard, if not impossible, to beat at the moment. If you have a better suggestion i will be very happy to use something different in my next oil change.
12-02-2009, 09:12 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by Taseas,Dec 2 2009, 01:18 PM
FYI redline makes a straight 30w oil for "racing purposes". As for everyday use both formulations are superior to others. Not only they have better specs (the ones available in their websites) but there are many people who posted reports after sending oil to the lab for chemical analysis. I do not think that people here are that interested but in case they are they can check at bobistheoilguy. Anyway the proper weight for the s2k is 30 and the two products that i mentioned are hard, if not impossible, to beat at the moment. If you have a better suggestion i will be very happy to use something different in my next oil change.
You are using oils developed for the american market on a Japanese car running European fuel. I'm surprised the catalyst hasn't failed with the amount of Phos and sulphur in some of those oils.
0W and 5W do vary in the cold crank. However to get the 0W grades you typically need a lower base oil viscosity (Oil viscosity without the effects of viscosity modifiers). It's this low BOV that makes me wonder if 0W oil grades are the cause of TCT rattles. Mobil 1 0W-40 also has a pretty high NOACK value (ie oil volatility) which could be linked to high oil consumption
I have always ran my S2000 on 5W-30 or 5W-40s and now at 125k it has never had a TCT issue. A lot of the cars I read about seem to have a 0W oil involved. This is by no means fact just a suspicion on mine.
There is no need for a 0W grade in this country IMO, other than for fuel economy reasons.
FWIW Honda UK recommend a 5W-40 in these engines.
12-02-2009, 09:28 AM
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Take all of the above advice with a large pinch of salt because you'll always get people bigging up whatever it is they use 
then read the manual and use whatever it is that Honda tell you to use.
simples..
then read the manual and use whatever it is that Honda tell you to use.simples..
12-02-2009, 09:45 AM
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Problem is Honda have recommended from 10W30 to 5W40 oils over the years.
Honda UK is even worse every time it signs a co-marketing agreement with one of the brands that become their recommendation.
FWIW I agree that a 5W40 is a good choice. Personally I use the Fully synth Castrol. Not sure if the grade impacts TCT rattle though.
Honda UK is even worse every time it signs a co-marketing agreement with one of the brands that become their recommendation.
FWIW I agree that a 5W40 is a good choice. Personally I use the Fully synth Castrol. Not sure if the grade impacts TCT rattle though.