Mixing Oil Grades
08-26-2005, 06:19 AM
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Mixing Oil Grades
I'm currently out of top-up oil (Redline 10w30) and I've heard from the supplier that they won't have any for a while yet so I may need to find an alternative.
So my question is, what will be the best alternative to use, given that I don't want to have to do a full oil change? They have 5w30 and 10w40 available, will there be any problem with mixing grades? Or do I have to do a full change, which I'm loath to do after only having it changed 1000 miles ago.
So my question is, what will be the best alternative to use, given that I don't want to have to do a full oil change? They have 5w30 and 10w40 available, will there be any problem with mixing grades? Or do I have to do a full change, which I'm loath to do after only having it changed 1000 miles ago.
08-26-2005, 02:38 PM
#2
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I dont like mixing any oil as a rule. Im not actually sure what the dynamics of the 2 different grades would be, but you would have 2 different oils at a differenct visc at a either operating temp or cold, depending on which number you decide to mix.
Some will say thats being picky, but I dont like doing it unless its an emergency. You used that much in 1000 miles?
Im sure you could get some if you try elsewhere? Try Alan at www.ASPerformance.com
MB
Some will say thats being picky, but I dont like doing it unless its an emergency. You used that much in 1000 miles?
Im sure you could get some if you try elsewhere? Try Alan at www.ASPerformance.com
MB
08-26-2005, 10:35 PM
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I'm still concerned about this mineral oil thing in a MY05 - on another thread I found out that you're not supposed to top up a MY05 with mineral oil, yet the FAQ says you should - what to do???!!!
08-26-2005, 11:34 PM
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Alex
I'm fairly new to the S2K but have had lots of motorbikes over the years and I've talked to lots of experts about oil. My understanding is you need to use mineral oil in a new engine to get some "controlled wear". Synthetic is not good as it can lead to glazing of the cylinder walls. Likewise the engine needs a good positive break in period to push the piston rings onto the walls and get the controlled wear going. After 9000 miles in the s2 its then upto you. Synthetic will last longer so you can extend the oil change period although mineral is perfectly OK provided you change it regularly. Because of the high revving nature of the Honda I will be using sythetic but in my Honda motorbike which revs to 14000 you can't use a sythetic because of the "wet clutch" and so a semi sythetic is required. Confusing isn't it!
I'm fairly new to the S2K but have had lots of motorbikes over the years and I've talked to lots of experts about oil. My understanding is you need to use mineral oil in a new engine to get some "controlled wear". Synthetic is not good as it can lead to glazing of the cylinder walls. Likewise the engine needs a good positive break in period to push the piston rings onto the walls and get the controlled wear going. After 9000 miles in the s2 its then upto you. Synthetic will last longer so you can extend the oil change period although mineral is perfectly OK provided you change it regularly. Because of the high revving nature of the Honda I will be using sythetic but in my Honda motorbike which revs to 14000 you can't use a sythetic because of the "wet clutch" and so a semi sythetic is required. Confusing isn't it!
08-27-2005, 12:27 AM
#5
i don't have any problem mixing oil grades in my car as long as you stick with the same type of oil, eg don't mix semi synthetic with fully synthetic. the oils will mix, so its not like pouring oil on water. i'd be inclined to go with the 5w30 if you redline oil is 10w30.
08-27-2005, 01:27 AM
#6
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Agree with both of above. Makes more sense to vary the 1st number, rather than the operating temp number.
Alex, consult the dealer. If its got minerl oil in there, its normally changed at 1000 miles for a semi synth, then eventually F/S - but the dealers dont tend to like using F/S (cost)
MB
Alex, consult the dealer. If its got minerl oil in there, its normally changed at 1000 miles for a semi synth, then eventually F/S - but the dealers dont tend to like using F/S (cost)
MB
