Si@Hendy Performance

Marks got a good point, the price of a few dyno sessions tweaking the FPR would go a long way towards a AEM... its getting a decent tuner which costs!

Si@Hendy Performance

mikey k

Well I have the AFR gauge so I guess I could "road tune" it and see how I get on

Been looking at an AEM on fleabay. Better start the next shopping list

mikey k

is it worth thinking about the Spoon/Mugen cooling mods? (thermostat, switch & rad cap?)

Bibbs

When is it not

I'll be watching my temps and doing data logging at Nur .. if i get a few laps where it's getting too hot, I'll have a re-think.

Day-to-day, I don't think it's worth it.

Are you having it as a daily car, or a track monster?

mikey k

Weekend, touring hols, the odd commute and occasional track day.

More interested in reliable power than out and out power!

Bibbs

Mine I'm after a commuter, weekend toy and the annual Nur trip ..

So having it super mega powerful and no leather/AC etc. isn't an option.

Think it'll be fine without any cooling mods. But if they come up cheap

Si2k

Why do people think running an engine cooler than it was designed to is a good idea?

Bibbs

I know the rad cap is actually a "heating mod" as it allows the system to get upto a higher pressure.

Not sure about the thermostat and switch .. that just opens the rad earlier I'd have thought.

Si2k

Themostat maintains a lower coolant temperature, switch just turns the fan on earlier. No point really as when driving hard the thermostat doesnt do a lot. When cruising the engine will be running too cold.

Normal is 88C, most these 'racing stats' open at 82C.

Radiator cap just means than rather than the cap losing pressure when it gets too hot you end up splitting a pipe or cracking the rad.