stowc

After getting my S2K in march 2000 I found that when hot (after traffic etc.) it would not pull as well and sometimes nearly died on me with a huge jolt. This would clear once moving again which would require a massive handfull of revs and slipped clutch, then it would feel slightly down on power for a while. At the first service at Clover Leaf in Ascot (march '02) I mentioned this and they very helpfully came back and told me they had a mod to fix this and was to do with the wiring, I assumed this might be resighting a sensor that was getting too hot but didn't ask.

Since then things have not been as bad but it noticeably loses power when hot, I have noticed that the US forums have several threads on heat shielding the intake side to drop intake temps and I guess stop it retarding the ignition (or whatever to protect it).

Has anyone had this done or fitted anything themselves in this area.

Kobe

I notice the car stumbles a bit if you are stuck at lights for more than a few minutes - just for a few yards or so until it seems to catch a breath of cold air. Not totally scientific but mine seems worse since I fitted the backyard special air-inlet thingy - maybe more air get's trapped and can't circulate when stationary?

Frenchie

I don't have the problem and I don't know the answer, but I have seen a considerable amount written about this over the past few months. I suggest you do a search on a few relevant key words.

Brian is probably up to speed with this (it seems that, if there's been an S2000 problem then poor old Brian has had it )

Brian is 'bmarshall' BTW

HTH

Turtle

The S2000's ECU retards ignition when intake temperatures get above a certain level to stop knock form occuring which reduces power. Whether people notice the effect or not is down to the individual a lot. I've noticed it, and dislike the trait.

There are a lot of things you can do to improve the situation. Ranging from expensive CAI's (Mugens, or Spoon's duct), tuned CAI's (like AEM's), adding an intake manifold insulator gasket (Hondata), uprating the cooling system - thermostat, thermoswitch, radiator cap (Mugen or Spoon etc.), making a DIY mat that covers the top of the radiator.

From the sound of your post, you're happy with your S2000, apart from the power loss and 'soggy' engine feel when it's hot. So I'd recommend trying a DIY rad mat.

Look at this thread here to give yourself a good idea. You can common insulation material from B&Q etc, or for a few more

joecro

StowC,

I have suffered similar probs, with different results.

1. If sitting/crawling thro traffic after a while the 'S' kangaroos when i set off, yes i have to ride the clutch and yes it soon goes away. It is a pain so i tend to set off in 2nd with a few more revs and it is fine.

2. After about 10 months of getting mine i found that if i stopped for a minute or two at lights and then set off with huge enthusiasm [read foot to floor in first] then as soon as the vtech cut in at about 6000rpm the engine died and i nearly went thro the windscreen each time. My dealer was great, i took him out, he wired up his ECU reader thing and we went for a drive. Nothing happened, it behaved perfectly. On my way home it happened again. I spent ages on the main S2ki board and eventually some kind knowledgable soul came forward with the answer; low oil level.

When the engine idles the oil pressure drops, when you then ask it to do the business it has to get up its head of pressure again and with low oil it cant so to safe guard the engine it cuts out at vtech. I set off for my local shell garage to buy some more of their good stuff and on the way (about 2 miles) the oil warning light came on. I nearly dropped my load. I immediately parked up and walked the rest of the way. 4 litres later, Yes FOUR, 80% of its capacity it was again full and the problem was gone.

In 6000 miles I had burned 4 litres of oil. Yikes! I had never checked it, tut tut. Now i check it regularly and nothing changes. Ah well better safe than sorry.

I guess point 1. may be to do with the oil pressure dropping too - Brian over to you

Oh one thing stow... Did i read your post right? You had your first service after 2 years? wouldnt that void your warranty which demands service every 9k or 12 months?

Joe

S2000RJ

I believe there are a number of possible reasons. I had not considered the oil level before. There can be a problem with the sensors, which can cause the engine to die. In my experience this is more likely in damp conditions. If a sensor is dead it should cause a MIL error, the problem is the sudden movement of the engine, flexing the connectors. Heat soak when stationary can also be a problem. My cars currently having the wiring loom and O2 sensors replaced, but this could be similar to the work you've already had done. Unfortunately the O2 sensors have to be disconnected for a clutch/gearbox change, which could be the root of my problems.

If you can reprodruce your problem, it would be worth checking the ECM values using a OBD reader. If you're at the mini-meet, you're very welcome to have a look at mine. It can read IAT (Inlet Air Temp) as well as the timing and fuel values. Unfortunately, the ECM can only send about nine readings per second, so you have to be very selective with what you measure. I haven't looked at the IAT when driving yet, because I've been using it to log my gear selection and O2 sensor problems.

Turtle

If you've kangarooing problems in traffic, where the engine sometimes picks up when you set off without you opening the throttle, then I know the cause of that one. It's the idle control valve sticking. I've had mine replaced, and not had the problem since. I simply explained the symptoms to the service manager, who knew what the problem was, sent a fax to Honda UK tech and a few weeks later it was all sorted. (The idle control valves were on back order.)

-Brian.

joecro

Thanks Brian, I knew you would know

stowc

Sorry Joe, a typo first service march '01.

I'm pretty sure its not oil I'm pretty careful with that.

I think Brian has described what I am thinking of, so will investigate.

Rob, interesting comment also because my dealer said loom replacement and this was done at the same time as having the clutch replacement to stop the buzzing noise. If I can get to the meet I will take you up on your offer.

Thanks All,

Craig

Froddy

I've complained to my dealer about this 'hesitation' problem which seems much worse after crawling in traffic.

They've consulted with Honda UK, who seem to think that a new MAP sensor is the answer.
This accords with similar experiences of a Cypriot subscriber who responded to my 'Car wants to stall' post.

Hoping to have the sensor fitted soon - it's on order. Will keep you posted!

Froddy