Konis + Teins...too low?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Konis + Teins...too low?
Having fitted Konis dampers all round on the lowest perch, together with Tein springs...it would appear that my S is a little too low to bring the rear camber into spec.
I went to Protyre (will be going to TGM/CoG/WiM later) to get my wheels pointing in the right direction...my efforts were pathetic!
I wasn't exactly inspired when the chap said...is this an IS200? WTF?!?!?
Anyway, he couldn't bring the rear camber into spec on the drivers side, the passenger side was fine. I told him just make it the same left and right, so he did, I'm running 2 degrees of camber at the rear now. The front end was fine.
Should I:
A. Raise the bottom onto the higher perch to allow the camber to be brought back in? It's a fairly simple job, I just have to compress the springs in situe. I do like the look of the car as it is however, and doing this will probably raise the car by a good 10-15mm
B. Fit half shaft spacers etc?
C. Do nothing and wait 'til a visit to TGM/CoG/WiM?
I know most of the technical babble behind alignment and what I can do, having read copious threads on the subject, I would just like to hear your opinions on which route I should take please. Ta
Whatever route I choose...I'm REALLY glad I'm moving soon. I have to negotiate the speed bumps on my road with great care!
I went to Protyre (will be going to TGM/CoG/WiM later) to get my wheels pointing in the right direction...my efforts were pathetic!
I wasn't exactly inspired when the chap said...is this an IS200? WTF?!?!?
Anyway, he couldn't bring the rear camber into spec on the drivers side, the passenger side was fine. I told him just make it the same left and right, so he did, I'm running 2 degrees of camber at the rear now. The front end was fine.
Should I:
A. Raise the bottom onto the higher perch to allow the camber to be brought back in? It's a fairly simple job, I just have to compress the springs in situe. I do like the look of the car as it is however, and doing this will probably raise the car by a good 10-15mm
B. Fit half shaft spacers etc?
C. Do nothing and wait 'til a visit to TGM/CoG/WiM?
I know most of the technical babble behind alignment and what I can do, having read copious threads on the subject, I would just like to hear your opinions on which route I should take please. Ta
Whatever route I choose...I'm REALLY glad I'm moving soon. I have to negotiate the speed bumps on my road with great care!
#4
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I used to have a similar problem regards to the speed bumps on my Spoon springs and Stock damper. However I am now on Tein MonoFlex and I am glad that I had spent the money.
Personally I would get TGM/CoG/WiM to do ride height adjustments together with geo. That way you can have the lowest possible ride height with the correct camber settings. I would imangine the ride height adjustment job would cost you extra ~1hr job.
Personally I would get TGM/CoG/WiM to do ride height adjustments together with geo. That way you can have the lowest possible ride height with the correct camber settings. I would imangine the ride height adjustment job would cost you extra ~1hr job.
#5
With the new shocks, you'll e cornering faster anyway, so a little more camber (which some of us have on standard cars) will actually help. I'm on 2deg on the rear and 1deg10min on the front, bt could quite happily go higher (as in more negative).
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#8
Originally Posted by JD_S2k,May 20 2009, 05:04 PM
I run more than that aswell.
Also, it would be rear toe arm's you want, not half shaft spacers
Also, it would be rear toe arm's you want, not half shaft spacers
That's what you need to fix the "problem".
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Cheers for all the comments guys. I have thought about running more camber in the past...I could have done with more at Keevil.
How's your S Dembo? Any progress?
How's your S Dembo? Any progress?
#10
Toe arms wont fix the camber issue.
If they are different each side, somethings a little bent.
I use about -2.5 degrees rear camber for exactly the same reason, it's great so leave it.
Try about -1.5-2.0 front too, far better in tight corners.
HS spacers is a red herring really.
Look up Hypersoniks post last year about this.
Basically the splined drive shafts run in splined buckets in the rear hub area.
This allows the drive shaft length to change as your suspension moves up/down.
One slides inside the other. So, eventually they were grooves, even on a standard car.
You may not notice until you lower and the splines are now running on a different part of the bucket by a few mm.
If its worn at all, then the ball bearings run on the 'new' bit and drop into the old worn bit.
instant vibration.
The spacers just try to keep the ballbearings running in the same old spot so you dont feel the worn ridges
So, if vibes, turn the buckets 180 degrees and get a few years more use out of them or fit the spacers.
No vibes - no need for spacers.
HTH
Steve.
If they are different each side, somethings a little bent.
I use about -2.5 degrees rear camber for exactly the same reason, it's great so leave it.
Try about -1.5-2.0 front too, far better in tight corners.
HS spacers is a red herring really.
Look up Hypersoniks post last year about this.
Basically the splined drive shafts run in splined buckets in the rear hub area.
This allows the drive shaft length to change as your suspension moves up/down.
One slides inside the other. So, eventually they were grooves, even on a standard car.
You may not notice until you lower and the splines are now running on a different part of the bucket by a few mm.
If its worn at all, then the ball bearings run on the 'new' bit and drop into the old worn bit.
instant vibration.
The spacers just try to keep the ballbearings running in the same old spot so you dont feel the worn ridges
So, if vibes, turn the buckets 180 degrees and get a few years more use out of them or fit the spacers.
No vibes - no need for spacers.
HTH
Steve.