richmc

A little bit of damage then cold damp conditions can maki it fall apart, whip it off araldite it up and try it, or spend £117 on item 7 -

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda...block_03=19263

EDIT - Keep running on 98/99 RON, it won't knock then.

DanBes2k

Hi all, so i finally got round to attcking the knock sensor, it was definately broken (in half infact!). So i fitted the new sensor, a complete pig of a job. Now the important part, i was extremely careful fitting the new sensor as not to damage it, even went as far as removing the battery so the socket and extensions were as straight as possible. All seemed fine when i was finished, now i went for a drive, literally pulled out of mystreet, accelerated and the ECL came back on? Reset the ecu, still no luck, took the car down to a friend to get the code read again and it turns out its throwing the same code. Now i read somewhere on here that the light may go back out after a few miles? is this true? Surely the car is ok to use? It drives absolutely fine?

Floppy

I totally disagree. It all depends how old and brittle the plastic is. Mine came off in my hand with no force placed on it whatsoever and definitely no ham fists. Over time with the heat cycles it becomes so brittle it will get to the point where it'll be hanging off on its own IMO.

purgeraptor

The code can also relate to a faulty wire from the sensor to the ECU.

DanBes2k

Is this a case of cutting into the loom? Seems a bit drastic!?

DanBes2k

So i'm going to test the wire to see if the sensor is actually getting a current , does anybody have an idea what kind of reading it should be getting? I think my main mistake may be buying an eBay knock sensor (not my gut feeling, i'm not usually cheap, got talked into it). After a bit of reading it seems the s2k knock sensor is pretty specific. I cant be the only one who has had this problem?

BenRNBP

I think you are meant to check it for Volts rather than Amps and I expect it'll be below 5V.

I think if you actually get the Knock sensor code it'll give you a better clue (P0325 through P0334) - if it says somethign like "circuit malfunction" you'll now there's a short or a break in the wiring

DanBes2k

Argh this is really pissing me off now. I can find nothing on the net about damaged knock sensor wiring for the s2k. Google search returns the same 3 or 4 poxy knock sensor threads on s2ki. What would be the reasoning behind the wiring being damaged? I understand it could be I just can't see how. Could buying an OEM brand new sensor sort it?

Daytona-Dave

Download or get a copy of the workshop manual, and the all the pin data is on there,

DanBes2k

So after advice from a few different people I've gone ahead and bought a brand new genuine oem knock sensor. God I hope it works.