It's an issue a day! UPDATE: VIDEO
#41
Nope, not sure at all Dodgy primary O2 could account for the possible running rich scenario although at WOT in VTEC I think the ECU moves into open loop mode doesn't it ?
Tony, apologies for jacking your thread but hopefully it'll give you some clues to sort yours out too !
Tony, apologies for jacking your thread but hopefully it'll give you some clues to sort yours out too !
#42
MB is your man to ask about that - his 'IDLE FAQ' was what gave me all the required info to fix my issues.
#43
I did notice my throttle cable was a little tight where I'd removed it to get at the IACV - it now has a decent amount of slack/deflection, so it's possible it was holding the butterfly open a fraction - another thing Tony can check!
#45
OBBII ELM 327 Bluetooth adapter and Torque pro for Android (although the free version works just as well) - like this chap here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uitDO0Uk10
The bit at about 10 mins in that shows what can be read (in green) there isn't massive amounts in the Honda ECU (compared with my V6 Golf) but there are some useful metrics in there. You can log the readings over time for analysis later, but I've not yet been out and done that yet - thought I'd go back to basics.
Incidentally, all the engine checks are green including Lambda function but I don't hold much faith in the S2000 ECU to actually tell me something is wrong (as apposed to the golf which keeps logging a misfire in cylinder 5 I can't even feel !)
The bit at about 10 mins in that shows what can be read (in green) there isn't massive amounts in the Honda ECU (compared with my V6 Golf) but there are some useful metrics in there. You can log the readings over time for analysis later, but I've not yet been out and done that yet - thought I'd go back to basics.
Incidentally, all the engine checks are green including Lambda function but I don't hold much faith in the S2000 ECU to actually tell me something is wrong (as apposed to the golf which keeps logging a misfire in cylinder 5 I can't even feel !)
#46
continue to hyjack my thread its giving many things to check.
Mines getting worse, starting to do it when im driving now. If im on a flat road and i try to hold a constant speed and rpm it likes to give a little jolt, feels like a little bump in the road.
If im accelerating, even slightly, its fine and same with deceleration.
She pulls so well through all gears and rpm as long as i'm accelerating.
Its got to be a sensor when its running on closed loop. OR something that will throw a sensor off when in closed loop, such as a hole in the exhaust pre- O2 sensor
Mines getting worse, starting to do it when im driving now. If im on a flat road and i try to hold a constant speed and rpm it likes to give a little jolt, feels like a little bump in the road.
If im accelerating, even slightly, its fine and same with deceleration.
She pulls so well through all gears and rpm as long as i'm accelerating.
Its got to be a sensor when its running on closed loop. OR something that will throw a sensor off when in closed loop, such as a hole in the exhaust pre- O2 sensor
#47
FIXED IT !!! no "bump" at idle and no hesitation high up the revs.
Today I replaced the spark plug seals, while I had the cam cover off checked the valve clearances, couple were a little tight (Ex) but I could get the next size feeler in one was a little loose (In). Cleaned up my coil packs and put in new NGK PFR7G-11S (stock no #7772) so they are the only new thing (three of the four old ones had those blow marks on them and the other was covered in oil residue where the seal had been leaking)
So you might be on the right lines with coilpack investigation, mine all had a pretty uniform resistance on the only two pins I could get a reading on (~1180 Ohms on the left and centre)
Hope this helps with sorting yours out - I'm gutted I didn't think to check plugs first but it had a full TGM service just before I bought it two years ago so assumed they didn't need looking at - I suspect now that the Densos might have been the original plugs .
Today I replaced the spark plug seals, while I had the cam cover off checked the valve clearances, couple were a little tight (Ex) but I could get the next size feeler in one was a little loose (In). Cleaned up my coil packs and put in new NGK PFR7G-11S (stock no #7772) so they are the only new thing (three of the four old ones had those blow marks on them and the other was covered in oil residue where the seal had been leaking)
So you might be on the right lines with coilpack investigation, mine all had a pretty uniform resistance on the only two pins I could get a reading on (~1180 Ohms on the left and centre)
Hope this helps with sorting yours out - I'm gutted I didn't think to check plugs first but it had a full TGM service just before I bought it two years ago so assumed they didn't need looking at - I suspect now that the Densos might have been the original plugs .
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