BenRNBP

For my Golf V6, I rigged up an injector cleaner with a 9v (pp3 type) battery and a doorbell push button. Cable tied a short bit of PVC hose between the injector and a can of carb cleaner to get pressure, then "fired" the injector in as short bursts as I could with a slight flick on the doorbell - worked a treat (and quite good fun - but not near sources of ignition !)

I also have an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner (James Ultra 6000?) and some cleaning solution that I put the injectors in for a few sessions.

/edit

also, I'm sure I remember something about the grommets/seals (injector to manifold) getting brittle - I think you can pick them up fairly easily so would be worth replacing those if you are pulling the injectors.
Might be worth getting a kit for the seals and baskets filters - somthing like this maybe ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-Qualit...-/321215194272

Dembo

No. I think the fuel filter is a bit of a bitch of a job.

Definitely replace the injector seals unless they're new (a leak there would be another cause of a misfire). I had to replace the washer under the fuel regulator too after it didn't seal and sprayed petrol all over the engine.

Top tip: leave the electrical connectors in the injectors when you remove the fuel rail (the fuel rail is the only thing holding the injectors in place). That way you don't drop any of the injectors through the inlet manifold and have to spend the next 2 hours taking things apart to get them out.

TonyDay90

I did a compression test tonight, and all is good 17 Bar (~245psi) across the board.

Ok, cant seem to fins a UK supplier of the seals, so il order some from the states. When they get here i will clean the injectors and chnage the seals.

Cheers for the help. Nice top tip, sounds like you had fun.

TonyDay90

Right, i got my injector seals, pulled the injectors cleaned them thoroughly, replaced seals and re assembled. Started her up, waited for her to get warm and the lump is still there.

So i reset the ECU by pulling the backup fuse, did the relearning process, took her for a good thrashing got back still the same. :|

When i restarted the car after the ECU reset it went straight to 1000 rpm idle, i thought it would be hunting all over the place. Sound right? I didn't time how long the fuse was out but it was definitely 5 mins.

It doesnt even hint a lump when driving and if i rev it stationary the lump also goes. It seems only to lump on idle, once warm.

Any more ideas guys?

I plan to adjust the tappets tomorrow but its not tappy so don't think its that.

unclefester

Make sure you adjust them when the block is cold - i.e. been sat a good 8 hours or so. Its a noisy engine, it's possible one is out enough to cause this without being out enough to be overly clattery.

TonyDay90

Cheers, i will make sure its stone cold.

Also do i really need bent feeler gauges? i only have straights.

BenRNBP

I've managed to create the bump you've got - I think I did it by cleaning my IACV and pulling the ECU fuse. Did yours beep when you put the fuse back in (if so you pulled the right one)

I currently have an issue that I'm not yet at the bottom of: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/109...tch-to-bed-in/ so it may be related to yours. I did my valve clearances were done last year so that reduces the chances it'll fix yours.

and yes, the bent feeler gauges do really help for the proper go/no go method to be able to feel the gentle drag of the gap. You might want to do the technique where you tighten down on a gauge that's slightly too thick then check with the correct size.

unclefester

What did you clean the IACV with Ben - WD40 and old soft toothbrush? Post ECU reset and following an idle learn, as long as the IACV or TPS isn't actually fooked it should be fine.

BenRNBP

STP Carb cleaner, no toothbrush, left to idle learn for 3 activations of the rad fans. I suspect my possible MAP issue might be to blame, I'll report back if it goes away with new MAP sensor.

Dembo

It's quite difficult to find bent feeler gauges to buy.