Intermittent Stalling any help appreciated
09-15-2005, 10:34 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by radron,Sep 15 2005, 12:55 PM
Hi All
So far:
Tried the Map whack - no joy
Replaced with new map sensor - wow the car is so much smoother!! no joy fixing the stalling
Checked the IACV and TPS - and they are fine but still stalling
Took it to Brighton Honda who said that it needed an Idle reset and they rebooted the ECU re programmed it?? and ran it at the correct idel for 10 mins.
Car is transformed have not had a repeat of the stall yet but its early days so Ill keep an eye on it and keep you all updated.
So far:
Tried the Map whack - no joy
Replaced with new map sensor - wow the car is so much smoother!! no joy fixing the stalling
Checked the IACV and TPS - and they are fine but still stalling
Took it to Brighton Honda who said that it needed an Idle reset and they rebooted the ECU re programmed it?? and ran it at the correct idel for 10 mins.
Car is transformed have not had a repeat of the stall yet but its early days so Ill keep an eye on it and keep you all updated.
,Mine is in for a service next week so its my turn to hit them with Brians list 
09-15-2005, 10:41 AM
#22
Sounds just like my old motor!!And it was what Brian said Clean the inlet with carb cleaner and it works for 5k miles !!or dealer told me to replace,that was around
09-16-2005, 12:50 AM
#23
I case anyone wants to try it, the idle learn is simple.
Pull the backup fuse to reset the ECU (or take the battery off).
Open the bonnet, and put it on it's stay.
Start the car, and turn everything off - no air con, no stereo, no electrical load.
Leave the car idling until the radiator fans kick in, then turn off, twice. It can take a long time for them to first kick in depending on the weather.
That's the 'quick' way of getting the ECU to adjust it's idle. However, it does constantly learn too - that's why 99% of the time the car will idle perfectly quickly after an ECU reset even if you do nothing. That's why I didn't recommend doing the idle learn - since it's trying to adapt all the time, re-starting to learning may mask a problem for a while as it'll be more conservative on the idle initially, but it's unlikley to actually fix whatever the problem is.
Funnily enough for my next car, I'm building my own datalogger. That will run 24/7 in a loop (probably 24 hours worth...). The idea being that if I get any hiccups from the engine, I'll have it logged - I won't have to go try recreate the problem again with the laptop connected. It'll be on another Honda engine with well over 100bhp/liter so a highly tuned engine in that'll benefit for the TLC. Should be fun...
-Brian.
Pull the backup fuse to reset the ECU (or take the battery off).
Open the bonnet, and put it on it's stay.
Start the car, and turn everything off - no air con, no stereo, no electrical load.
Leave the car idling until the radiator fans kick in, then turn off, twice. It can take a long time for them to first kick in depending on the weather.
That's the 'quick' way of getting the ECU to adjust it's idle. However, it does constantly learn too - that's why 99% of the time the car will idle perfectly quickly after an ECU reset even if you do nothing. That's why I didn't recommend doing the idle learn - since it's trying to adapt all the time, re-starting to learning may mask a problem for a while as it'll be more conservative on the idle initially, but it's unlikley to actually fix whatever the problem is.
Funnily enough for my next car, I'm building my own datalogger. That will run 24/7 in a loop (probably 24 hours worth...). The idea being that if I get any hiccups from the engine, I'll have it logged - I won't have to go try recreate the problem again with the laptop connected. It'll be on another Honda engine with well over 100bhp/liter so a highly tuned engine in that'll benefit for the TLC. Should be fun...
-Brian.
09-16-2005, 06:16 AM
#25
Originally Posted by Turtle,Sep 16 2005, 08:50 AM
I case anyone wants to try it, the idle learn is simple.
Pull the backup fuse to reset the ECU (or take the battery off).
Open the bonnet, and put it on it's stay.
Start the car, and turn everything off - no air con, no stereo, no electrical load.
Leave the car idling until the radiator fans kick in, then turn off, twice. It can take a long time for them to first kick in depending on the weather.
That's the 'quick' way of getting the ECU to adjust it's idle. However, it does constantly learn too - that's why 99% of the time the car will idle perfectly quickly after an ECU reset even if you do nothing. That's why I didn't recommend doing the idle learn - since it's trying to adapt all the time, re-starting to learning may mask a problem for a while as it'll be more conservative on the idle initially, but it's unlikley to actually fix whatever the problem is.
Funnily enough for my next car, I'm building my own datalogger. That will run 24/7 in a loop (probably 24 hours worth...). The idea being that if I get any hiccups from the engine, I'll have it logged - I won't have to go try recreate the problem again with the laptop connected. It'll be on another Honda engine with well over 100bhp/liter so a highly tuned engine in that'll benefit for the TLC. Should be fun...
-Brian.
Pull the backup fuse to reset the ECU (or take the battery off).
Open the bonnet, and put it on it's stay.
Start the car, and turn everything off - no air con, no stereo, no electrical load.
Leave the car idling until the radiator fans kick in, then turn off, twice. It can take a long time for them to first kick in depending on the weather.
That's the 'quick' way of getting the ECU to adjust it's idle. However, it does constantly learn too - that's why 99% of the time the car will idle perfectly quickly after an ECU reset even if you do nothing. That's why I didn't recommend doing the idle learn - since it's trying to adapt all the time, re-starting to learning may mask a problem for a while as it'll be more conservative on the idle initially, but it's unlikley to actually fix whatever the problem is.
Funnily enough for my next car, I'm building my own datalogger. That will run 24/7 in a loop (probably 24 hours worth...). The idea being that if I get any hiccups from the engine, I'll have it logged - I won't have to go try recreate the problem again with the laptop connected. It'll be on another Honda engine with well over 100bhp/liter so a highly tuned engine in that'll benefit for the TLC. Should be fun...
-Brian.
Datalogger idea is great!
09-20-2005, 02:35 AM
#26
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Hi All
Quick update
All seems fine and the car is smoother than ever with the new map sensor. Idle has not been a problem and I have given it some serious berries both with a full and empty tank.
As BM and MRV say the reset may just be hiding the problem so Ill keep an eye on it and let you know what happens. I might invest in a Muz intake or something like that in case its a heat problem?
Cheers all
MrV, I hope they fix it for you
Quick update
All seems fine and the car is smoother than ever with the new map sensor. Idle has not been a problem and I have given it some serious berries both with a full and empty tank.
As BM and MRV say the reset may just be hiding the problem so Ill keep an eye on it and let you know what happens. I might invest in a Muz intake or something like that in case its a heat problem?
Cheers all
MrV, I hope they fix it for you
09-20-2005, 02:53 AM
#27
Originally Posted by radron,Sep 20 2005, 10:35 AM
All seems fine and the car is smoother than ever with the new map sensor.
I might invest in a Muz intake or something like that in case its a heat problem?
I might invest in a Muz intake or something like that in case its a heat problem?
I would try for a spoon or spoon copy
09-20-2005, 08:08 AM
#28
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Mate - are you blaming your dodgy performance on your equipment again? Typical - I'll have to come round and service your missus again!
Other points though - could be a pressure drop due to the filler cap leaking, but more likely an injector/fuel filter problem.
Try a cn of industrial strength injector cleaner if it happens again, if not you're into new injectors! Good luck!
Other points though - could be a pressure drop due to the filler cap leaking, but more likely an injector/fuel filter problem.
Try a cn of industrial strength injector cleaner if it happens again, if not you're into new injectors! Good luck!
09-20-2005, 12:04 PM
#29
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My S2000's idle problem (stalled at every idle opportunity when warm) was caused by a dirty air filter. Too much running with the airbox off. This was accompanied by an "air intake temperature out of range" code. New air filter and ECU reset over a year ago and fine ever since.
09-20-2005, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by radron,Sep 20 2005, 10:35 AM
MrV, I hope they fix it for you
Kinda hoping it will play up on Friday on the way to the dealers but bet it wont
Have tried cleaning the inlet with carb cleaner a couple of times now still no real difference ,what gets me is the unregularity of the fault
last time she was doing it was driving up to MM2 from then till now no problems ,and yet another time she will do it for 2 or 3 days on the trot !!!!