Interesting info on stuttering / hesitation prob
03-02-2006, 12:00 PM
#11
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Er, I think your car is a bit special Kenny!
I would be tempted to try a new MAP given the extent of your prob, actual stalling etc is not what im describing above. It may be totally screwed.
To me, what I saw is MAP heatsoak or Lambda, and I rule out the lambda as it would be doing it all the time if that was it. Id love to have a play with yours! (car
)
MB
I would be tempted to try a new MAP given the extent of your prob, actual stalling etc is not what im describing above. It may be totally screwed.
To me, what I saw is MAP heatsoak or Lambda, and I rule out the lambda as it would be doing it all the time if that was it. Id love to have a play with yours! (car
)MB
03-02-2006, 12:08 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Saxo Boy,Mar 2 2006, 08:54 PM
And if you have a K&N (new) in the original airbox in the middle of winter with a spoon snorkle how do you solve it?
03-02-2006, 12:15 PM
#13
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My only other thought is the MAP itself is getting hot. I cant believe how hot it gets under that bonnet compared to other cars. Might put some heat shield on it!
I know a few people have said they took the rad shield off and never had the prob again. Anyone comment?
MB
I know a few people have said they took the rad shield off and never had the prob again. Anyone comment?
MB
03-02-2006, 12:16 PM
#14
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Chris Type-R is being kind enough to send me a MAP that works perfectly well to check. I'll install, reset and test to see how she goes. I'm hoping and praying this solves the problem otherwise it is entirely back to the drawing board.
Mark the fact you are the other end of the country really p*sses me off. If you were closer I'd definately have been pimping around handing you tools (metal type) whilst you were installing your supercharger, etc - I'd love to learn how to be a greasemonkey! I've got a lot of time for like minded car enthusiasts and I'm pretty sure you fall in that category given the 50 million cars you've had. Your diag device would be useful too
Mark the fact you are the other end of the country really p*sses me off. If you were closer I'd definately have been pimping around handing you tools (metal type
) whilst you were installing your supercharger, etc - I'd love to learn how to be a greasemonkey! I've got a lot of time for like minded car enthusiasts and I'm pretty sure you fall in that category given the 50 million cars you've had. Your diag device would be useful too
03-02-2006, 12:19 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Well it would be a nice scenic trip down! You could have bought Rich B's car too 
Keep us posted on the MAP. Im sure I can test these at work somehow... Essentially they are a 0-5v output, and ive got the scale in PSI vs volts. If the other one works, send me your duff one and i will see if I can test it.
MB
Keep us posted on the MAP. Im sure I can test these at work somehow... Essentially they are a 0-5v output, and ive got the scale in PSI vs volts. If the other one works, send me your duff one and i will see if I can test it.
MB
03-02-2006, 01:30 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Dark Blue Mark,Mar 2 2006, 09:15 PM
My only other thought is the MAP itself is getting hot. I cant believe how hot it gets under that bonnet compared to other cars. Might put some heat shield on it!
I know a few people have said they took the rad shield off and never had the prob again. Anyone comment?
MB
I know a few people have said they took the rad shield off and never had the prob again. Anyone comment?
MB
Interestingly I still get heat bog in traffic!
Never used to with my 00 that had a snorkel and cut heat shield
03-03-2006, 01:03 PM
#17
Hesitation when > 6000rpm is the usual symptom if the map sensor connection is causing problems. The map sensor doesn't normally cause idle problems.
I'm not going to comment a lot on how to diagnose it as I don't think it would help - most people simply don't have access to the equipment to diagnose these problems.
If you've the facilty to reset the CEL, you can experient to hint where the problem lies. The engine will still idle with either map or TPS disconnected... it'll CEL and go to a different idle strategy, but it should still run. (Note don't try past idling...). You can also leave the TSP connected to the loom, but unbolted so you can tweak the setting and see the effect. Do NOT try that if you do not have the equipment and understand how to set the TSP correctly.
Finally, the F20C like most modern emissions friendly vehicles has a bazillion vacuum lines. That makes it somewhat prone to vacuum leaks... which the ECU can mask as long as the IACV stays within it's bandwidth. If not, well. So worth checking.
Finally, always worth going through the idle learn procedure as a first step. I won't post it here as there are enough people on here with a hooky copy of the workshop manual that someone will enjoy the exercise of finding it. It's simple
-Brian.
I'm not going to comment a lot on how to diagnose it as I don't think it would help - most people simply don't have access to the equipment to diagnose these problems.
If you've the facilty to reset the CEL, you can experient to hint where the problem lies. The engine will still idle with either map or TPS disconnected... it'll CEL and go to a different idle strategy, but it should still run. (Note don't try past idling...). You can also leave the TSP connected to the loom, but unbolted so you can tweak the setting and see the effect. Do NOT try that if you do not have the equipment and understand how to set the TSP correctly.
Finally, the F20C like most modern emissions friendly vehicles has a bazillion vacuum lines. That makes it somewhat prone to vacuum leaks... which the ECU can mask as long as the IACV stays within it's bandwidth. If not, well. So worth checking.
Finally, always worth going through the idle learn procedure as a first step. I won't post it here as there are enough people on here with a hooky copy of the workshop manual that someone will enjoy the exercise of finding it. It's simple
-Brian.
03-04-2006, 12:53 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Cheers Brian 
My MAP is new, and the symptom im seeing / describing above is a heatsoak one confusing the MAP, I think.
Ive re-setup my TPS and it does behave better but you need a multimeter to do it. Can you confirm if the TPS has an idle switch in it? I dont think it does on these cars but id like to know for sure.
MB
My MAP is new, and the symptom im seeing / describing above is a heatsoak one confusing the MAP, I think.
Ive re-setup my TPS and it does behave better but you need a multimeter to do it. Can you confirm if the TPS has an idle switch in it? I dont think it does on these cars but id like to know for sure.
MB
03-04-2006, 01:08 AM
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By radiator shield, do youmean the black plastic air guide thing?
I took mine off when trying to fit the Muz intake, and haven't put it back on yet - was goin to ask the dealer to do it at the next service as half the placky screws broke off, is it worth putting back on again then !? I can't remember if the car has done it since ... thinking.. um yes it has once..
I took mine off when trying to fit the Muz intake, and haven't put it back on yet - was goin to ask the dealer to do it at the next service as half the placky screws broke off, is it worth putting back on again then !? I can't remember if the car has done it since ... thinking.. um yes it has once..
03-04-2006, 03:00 AM
#20
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I'm pretty sure thats the part he means. I took mines off to fit my spoon snorkel and haven't put it back on. It's had two services since then and the dealer hasn't mentioned it yet they still felt it neccessary to point out that I didn't have a spare wheel. Really?! You mean it just morphed into an amp without my knowledge