Information for 09 owners
#191
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Hi Gary, glad to hear your car is returning home soon
As far as the fix is concerned I hope the replacement thrust washers solve the problem and "the noise" is gone for good
With regards to other cars with "the noise" and apparently within tolerance I can only assume that
1) It may be a different noise, but this is unlikely due to the info posted here (including recordings), information shared between owners and comparing cars side by side
2) Incorrect measurements have been taken by dealers
3) Other affected cars aren't quite as noisy/ the issue has not sufficiently progressed to make them out of spec/ tolerance
ps. get some miles on that car (my offer still stands, you can leave it with me for a bit if it will help )
As far as the fix is concerned I hope the replacement thrust washers solve the problem and "the noise" is gone for good
With regards to other cars with "the noise" and apparently within tolerance I can only assume that
1) It may be a different noise, but this is unlikely due to the info posted here (including recordings), information shared between owners and comparing cars side by side
2) Incorrect measurements have been taken by dealers
3) Other affected cars aren't quite as noisy/ the issue has not sufficiently progressed to make them out of spec/ tolerance
ps. get some miles on that car (my offer still stands, you can leave it with me for a bit if it will help )
#192
Something tells me you(or anyone else) has no chance of driving Gary's car(Hi Gary), you touch his baby he breaka your fingers.
#193
Registered User
Interesting thread. Thrust washers put in backwards would die a lot sooner.
Anyone know if they changed the design of the washers in the later cars ? Also what about the clutch?
When the engines go what is the usual failure mechanism too?
Anyone know if they changed the design of the washers in the later cars ? Also what about the clutch?
When the engines go what is the usual failure mechanism too?
#194
I asked the first two of these questions.
The thrust washers in my car were the right way round.
The part number for the thrust washers has not changed, which I understand it would have done if the specification had changed.
The thrust washers in my car were the right way round.
The part number for the thrust washers has not changed, which I understand it would have done if the specification had changed.
#195
UK Moderator
However, it appears that Taiho also supply Honda with the same part
Might be relevant, might not........
Chris.
#196
If the thrust washers are being replaced with identical items, it sounds to me like the originals were faulty and have worn excessively leading to the excessive crank end float.
If it was the crank that was wearing or machined incorrectly the replacement thrust washers would need to be oversize and hence have a different part number.
If it was the crank that was wearing or machined incorrectly the replacement thrust washers would need to be oversize and hence have a different part number.
#197
Registered User
A supplier change can have a big effect on the quality of components. One main reason for changing supplier is cost too ...
Interesting though, would be good to see some of the removed washers though.
EVO4 s had a crankwalk issue due to the thrust washer design
Interesting though, would be good to see some of the removed washers though.
EVO4 s had a crankwalk issue due to the thrust washer design
#198
How do they measure the end float?, I know we measured float on turbine pumps in a rather crude fashion but the distance involved was in mm's rather than thousands of an inch. I ask because I know some Honda techs and a vernier gauge would be considered as a small adjustable spanner to several of them.
#199
Registered User
If its anything like How we do it:
Attach a magnetic block and dti to the flywheel (since the block is aluminium)
Using a large screwdriver/small crowbar GENTLY lever the flywheel towards the block rear
Zero the dti
Using the large screwdriver/samll crowbar lever the damper pulley in the other direction and read the dti
Attach a magnetic block and dti to the flywheel (since the block is aluminium)
Using a large screwdriver/small crowbar GENTLY lever the flywheel towards the block rear
Zero the dti
Using the large screwdriver/samll crowbar lever the damper pulley in the other direction and read the dti
#200
That's a similar fashion in which I'd check a pump but nowt gentle about a hammer and chisel between pump and motor couplings, so then Honda need to drop the box out to access the flywheel?