Immobilizer problem, engine crank but not fire up
#1
Immobilizer problem, engine crank but not fire up
I have a 02 reg UK model s2000, factory fitted with Hamilton & Palmer immobilizer, the engine decide not working since yesterday morning, first thing came to my mind was the weather too cold for a easy start (although it never happened before), but then I was realized there is no 'green key' sign on the dashboard anymore, and I can't hear the fuel pump prime, the keyfob can open and lock the doors, any suggestions on what to look at?
#3
Registered User
Locate the immobiliser/alarm unit, and whack it...the immobiliser relay is stuck open.
This is a short term measure, I suggest sourcing another alarm/immobiliser ASAP...unless you're good with electrics, this will need to be carried out by an auto-electrician.
HTH
This is a short term measure, I suggest sourcing another alarm/immobiliser ASAP...unless you're good with electrics, this will need to be carried out by an auto-electrician.
HTH
#5
Originally Posted by loftust,Dec 19 2010, 04:46 PM
Locate the immobiliser/alarm unit, and whack it...the immobiliser relay is stuck open.
This is a short term measure, I suggest sourcing another alarm/immobiliser ASAP...unless you're good with electrics, this will need to be carried out by an auto-electrician.
HTH
This is a short term measure, I suggest sourcing another alarm/immobiliser ASAP...unless you're good with electrics, this will need to be carried out by an auto-electrician.
HTH
The same advice, from the same person sorted the same issue out for me
The alarm box is under the drivers seat, my advice would be to use a rubber faced mallet and don't fanny about tapping it, give it a really good whack! As Lofty says, this is a short term solution and you should get a new alarm ASAP. My alarm atually gave up the ghost at the alarm fitters workshop and looked like this
#6
Fanastic post - first link I clicked on when Googling "S2000 immobiliser problem"
Just had the car recovered to home having got stranded at the local DIY store - took the drivers seat out, whacked the box with a rubber mallet - lo and behold she started.
So big thanks to the posters above.
Now where can I source another immobiliser unit frome?
Just had the car recovered to home having got stranded at the local DIY store - took the drivers seat out, whacked the box with a rubber mallet - lo and behold she started.
So big thanks to the posters above.
Now where can I source another immobiliser unit frome?
#7
UK Moderator
Fanastic post - first link I clicked on when Googling "S2000 immobiliser problem"
Just had the car recovered to home having got stranded at the local DIY store - took the drivers seat out, whacked the box with a rubber mallet - lo and behold she started.
So big thanks to the posters above.
Now where can I source another immobiliser unit frome?
Just had the car recovered to home having got stranded at the local DIY store - took the drivers seat out, whacked the box with a rubber mallet - lo and behold she started.
So big thanks to the posters above.
Now where can I source another immobiliser unit frome?
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Static sean (02-27-2021)
#10
Well here follows the update!
Spoke to Hamilton direct, tech guy only there tue & thu. Very helpful, he said a relay fault is unlikely but damage to the circuit board due to overheating was. This overheating would most likely be caused by an ageing fuel pump (nothing to worry about!) drawing a greater current than that when it was brand new and frying the fuel pump cut off circuit in the immobiliser. He advised that repair was possible, and obviously far cheaper than replacing the unit/system.
The fix is to bypass that part of the immobiliser circuit. Apparantly your vehicle overall immobilisation is unaffected as the factory fit Honda Cat 2 immobiliser will still cut the fuel in a different way.
I pulled the circuit board out from the box, it looked pretty similar to the one posted above with burning on the internal loom connection plug.
On the rear of the board, there was a damaged solder joint on the leg coming from the loom socket burnt pin.
This was obviously the point of circuit failure rather than a faulty relay. As the Tech guy had guessed, this burning was indeed on the fuel cut out circuitry. A blob of solder on the offending pin cured.
With the immobiliser box fixed, the next step was to bypass the problematic circuit. On the Hamilton system, the fuel cut out is wired into the fuel pump inertia switch cabling. On my UK car this was behind the kick trim near to the bonnet pull lever. As advised I looked for a pair of black cables in the vicinity and quickly located them cut into the inertia switch line 5cm from the connector plug. Leaving the immobiliser cabling connected in situ, I soldered a short piece of wire between them, effectively replacing the chopped section of the original loom. Access was greatly improved by unplugging the loom from the inertia switch.
Note in the pic the bridging wire is the blue/black wire in the pic centre, the link in the multiplug itself just enabled me to test staert the car with the inertia switch unplugged. Sorry for the poor quality pics.
Result, car now starts as normal and immobiliser will hopefully no longer overheat. Cost = 5cm of cable, a couple of blobs of solder and 1hr of my time! Happy days
Thanks again to all the helpful posters above.
Spoke to Hamilton direct, tech guy only there tue & thu. Very helpful, he said a relay fault is unlikely but damage to the circuit board due to overheating was. This overheating would most likely be caused by an ageing fuel pump (nothing to worry about!) drawing a greater current than that when it was brand new and frying the fuel pump cut off circuit in the immobiliser. He advised that repair was possible, and obviously far cheaper than replacing the unit/system.
The fix is to bypass that part of the immobiliser circuit. Apparantly your vehicle overall immobilisation is unaffected as the factory fit Honda Cat 2 immobiliser will still cut the fuel in a different way.
I pulled the circuit board out from the box, it looked pretty similar to the one posted above with burning on the internal loom connection plug.
On the rear of the board, there was a damaged solder joint on the leg coming from the loom socket burnt pin.
This was obviously the point of circuit failure rather than a faulty relay. As the Tech guy had guessed, this burning was indeed on the fuel cut out circuitry. A blob of solder on the offending pin cured.
With the immobiliser box fixed, the next step was to bypass the problematic circuit. On the Hamilton system, the fuel cut out is wired into the fuel pump inertia switch cabling. On my UK car this was behind the kick trim near to the bonnet pull lever. As advised I looked for a pair of black cables in the vicinity and quickly located them cut into the inertia switch line 5cm from the connector plug. Leaving the immobiliser cabling connected in situ, I soldered a short piece of wire between them, effectively replacing the chopped section of the original loom. Access was greatly improved by unplugging the loom from the inertia switch.
Note in the pic the bridging wire is the blue/black wire in the pic centre, the link in the multiplug itself just enabled me to test staert the car with the inertia switch unplugged. Sorry for the poor quality pics.
Result, car now starts as normal and immobiliser will hopefully no longer overheat. Cost = 5cm of cable, a couple of blobs of solder and 1hr of my time! Happy days
Thanks again to all the helpful posters above.