http://www.chassisclean.co.uk - Anyone used them?
02-11-2013, 03:33 AM
#1
Thread Starter
http://www.chassisclean.co.uk - Anyone used them?
I want the underside of my car steam cleaning and under sealing now all my new shiny parts have been fitted.
Unfortunately I couldn't get this done whilst the sub frames where off but never mind. I was going to do it myself now have seen sense!
I've been looking on the net and have found this place: http://www.chassisclean.co.uk/
I've been quoted £450 for the ‘works’: underside wash, steam clean, rinse, all cavities filled, all suspension masked off and body under sealed.
Has anyone used this company before? or if not can recommend anyone good people to do it? I live in Yorkshire and don’t want to travel more than 100 miles really.
Unfortunately I couldn't get this done whilst the sub frames where off but never mind. I was going to do it myself now have seen sense!
I've been looking on the net and have found this place: http://www.chassisclean.co.uk/
I've been quoted £450 for the ‘works’: underside wash, steam clean, rinse, all cavities filled, all suspension masked off and body under sealed.
Has anyone used this company before? or if not can recommend anyone good people to do it? I live in Yorkshire and don’t want to travel more than 100 miles really.
02-11-2013, 05:42 AM
#2
JR classics in Doncaster did mine. Cheaper than that and it looked good when done. I've not poked around under there for a while but can have a look. They're rated in 4x4 world.
02-11-2013, 09:14 AM
#4
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My current car (late Rev 5 MR2) has been done by these guys a good few years ago, and is now in excellent condition underneath. I'm not sure what products they use - just don't let anyone go anywhere near your car with horrible waxoyl!
Any reason for not doing it yourself? I did both my MX5s using quality dinitrol products. Takes a full weekend and it's a messy job, but saves a fortune as your mainly paying labour. That includes rust treatment and conversion, wax injection into sills and cavities, stone chip protection, and rubberised underseal. A company called Rejel sells good kits with all the right products.
Any reason for not doing it yourself? I did both my MX5s using quality dinitrol products. Takes a full weekend and it's a messy job, but saves a fortune as your mainly paying labour. That includes rust treatment and conversion, wax injection into sills and cavities, stone chip protection, and rubberised underseal. A company called Rejel sells good kits with all the right products.
02-11-2013, 10:03 AM
#6
There is a real issue with under-sealing cars of our age, have a look at the pictures of my car thats done 71K ( see connundrum thread ) , there will be lots of rusty bits already hiding under and behind things, including the petrol tank! ( I think lovegrova is having to have a new tank because of this ) you need to deal with these its not good just covering rust with under-seal what ever the make. I have removed the rust , then treated with POR15 "clean" then "prep and ready" and finally POR15 paint, all before application of underseal, I am using Dintrol, there are other makes some swearr by Bilt Hambler
I had no holes and only very minor pitting, and only some surface rust above the lip of the rear wheel arch's , which is often a place off holes developing. I would suggest removing the rubbers, give the area good clean and then take the wheels of and get your head in the wheel arch with a lead lamp. Other places were cills and floor pan to front off rear wheel arch either side of the jacking point.
Behind the rear crash bar was extensive rust, which most likely would have been the first place to actually cause structural problems, also despite careful observation under car even with an MOT inspector my 2 rear brakes pipes were badly corroded where you can't see them, they are having to be replaced.
The car looks fine top side's no sign of rust !
I have only so far dealt with the rear end of the car will be slowly moving towards the front
I had no holes and only very minor pitting, and only some surface rust above the lip of the rear wheel arch's , which is often a place off holes developing. I would suggest removing the rubbers, give the area good clean and then take the wheels of and get your head in the wheel arch with a lead lamp. Other places were cills and floor pan to front off rear wheel arch either side of the jacking point.
Behind the rear crash bar was extensive rust, which most likely would have been the first place to actually cause structural problems, also despite careful observation under car even with an MOT inspector my 2 rear brakes pipes were badly corroded where you can't see them, they are having to be replaced.
The car looks fine top side's no sign of rust !
I have only so far dealt with the rear end of the car will be slowly moving towards the front
02-11-2013, 11:39 AM
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Chippo - your quite correct and thats exaclty what I did - cleaning up and rubbing down underneath, wire wool, wire wheels in drill etc - all the bare metal was treated with a rust converter, primed, then sealed.
Catch whatever rust there is, treat it, and stop any coming in in the future.
On the 2nd car I did all the suspension arms were also painted in POR15 which is like 'powder coat in a tin'.
Catch whatever rust there is, treat it, and stop any coming in in the future.
On the 2nd car I did all the suspension arms were also painted in POR15 which is like 'powder coat in a tin'.
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02-11-2013, 02:30 PM
#8
Thread Starter
There is a real issue with under-sealing cars of our age, have a look at the pictures of my car thats done 71K ( see connundrum thread ) , there will be lots of rusty bits already hiding under and behind things, including the petrol tank! ( I think lovegrova is having to have a new tank because of this ) you need to deal with these its not good just covering rust with under-seal what ever the make. I have removed the rust , then treated with POR15 "clean" then "prep and ready" and finally POR15 paint, all before application of underseal, I am using Dintrol, there are other makes some swearr by Bilt Hambler
I had no holes and only very minor pitting, and only some surface rust above the lip of the rear wheel arch's , which is often a place off holes developing. I would suggest removing the rubbers, give the area good clean and then take the wheels of and get your head in the wheel arch with a lead lamp. Other places were cills and floor pan to front off rear wheel arch either side of the jacking point.
Behind the rear crash bar was extensive rust, which most likely would have been the first place to actually cause structural problems, also despite careful observation under car even with an MOT inspector my 2 rear brakes pipes were badly corroded where you can't see them, they are having to be replaced.
The car looks fine top side's no sign of rust !
I have only so far dealt with the rear end of the car will be slowly moving towards the front
I had no holes and only very minor pitting, and only some surface rust above the lip of the rear wheel arch's , which is often a place off holes developing. I would suggest removing the rubbers, give the area good clean and then take the wheels of and get your head in the wheel arch with a lead lamp. Other places were cills and floor pan to front off rear wheel arch either side of the jacking point.
Behind the rear crash bar was extensive rust, which most likely would have been the first place to actually cause structural problems, also despite careful observation under car even with an MOT inspector my 2 rear brakes pipes were badly corroded where you can't see them, they are having to be replaced.
The car looks fine top side's no sign of rust !
I have only so far dealt with the rear end of the car will be slowly moving towards the front
Only thing left to do is to underseal.
02-11-2013, 08:56 PM
#10
Bloody ell! Somebody else with that Gay Homosexual colour for the subframe
you would never catch me doing mine that colour 
everybody would point and laugh 
On a serious note what I will probably do with mine is have all the box sectioned and double skinned panels treated. It won't be for a while yet as I might go for steel rear arches rather than the plastic ones I have at the moment, same with the front wings.