Badger72

Hi mcfylfycossie
Did you have any luck removing your H&P ? Apparently I need a new motherboard but am currently struggling to access it because the H&P alarm box has 2 security screws which you need a special tool (RS Pro) to remove. I wondered if and how you accessed it? I'm stuck! Cheers

Badger72

Hello Vivienne, I am facing the same problem and wondered if you managed to resolve with a new motherboard/control unit? If so, did you manage to open the H&P alarm box - am currently struggling to access it because the H&P alarm box has 2 security screws which you need a special tool (RS Pro System part 444-7908 no longer in production!) to remove. I wondered if and how you accessed it? Thanks

Mike's

Could you not slot the screw with a Dremel type cut off wheel and take out with a flathead driver ?


Something like this

Badger72

Thanks Mike- never done that before but will take a look - it's a pretty small screw (size 2 screwdriver tip I think). Somebody else suggested drilling it out but that sounds challenging too!

martin j

Small set of mole grips?

Nottm_S2

I would think you could get something from machine mart to get that off.. take a better pic and measure it
I have loads of odd tools for stuff like this
but I would replace the system given the option, my car with H&P flats the battery in a few days whereas the one with a toad replacement lasts for weeks

Badger72

Thanks for the reply. Photo of the discontinued tool attached - It is for a screw with flange width of 5.5mm (M 2.5 or No4 size, I believe)
Will also look into replacing too (agree battery always drains very quickly)

CHIPPO

I used an. Angle grinder to remove the security screws , pretty sure you can get the correct tool if u search the net.

as I have said before , the problem with the alarm is most likely the two wires that power or disable the fuel pump via a relay contact on the board. The pump current is high and over time fry’s the multi pin connector , melts the plastic ect and the worse the connection gets the more heat is generated until the pin and socket fail . I just by passed the two pins with a length of wire connected into the loom via inline crimps and shrink wrap.

where people say tapping the unit gets it working this is most likely that very problem. The lady at HP pretty much confirmed that this was the problem. Realistically you could short pass the relay contact complexity out side of the box disable that part of the circuit, as an alternative to jumping past the plug and socket.

Badger72

Many thanks Chippo. I'm not sure I could get an Angle grinder at the bottom security screw (below the plume) but hoping to find an equivalent tool on the net.

I'm not sure my electrical skills would be able to do what you did so hoping a new board will do the trick!

mcflycossie

Sorry for my late response.

I ended up ripping the whole alarm system out of my EP3. Given that the only option from H&P was a replacement motherboard and that they could not guarantee I would not have the same issues in a few years, also taking into consideration the only guy there who knows about this alarm system is retiring I decided to just rip it out and get a more modern system.

I got those two safety screws out by using a hacksaw blade and cutting a small straight indent and just using a flat headed screw driver to take them out.

Also just as a side note my issue was the car not starting and the green immobilizer key light flashing. Mine turned out to be a faulty fuse box. So worth checking if you have other things not working on the car. My internal central locking button and interior light for example where not working.