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H&P alarm - dead, no flashing light, nothing

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Old 03-28-2011, 12:34 PM
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Default H&P alarm - dead, no flashing light, nothing

As per title (done a search but nothing quite describes my predicament), the alarm won't work (at all). No flashing LED, no response from any of my 3 remotes.

Can open and start the car OK though! One positive!

And this is what led to it, I was working under the car (suspension bushes ) but had left the ignition on so I could unlock the steering lock but forgot to turn the ignition off.

Anyway, a few hours into working under the car, the alarm starting going off remotes would not turn it off, tries locking/unlocking, putting the key in the ignition (where I saw everything was dim so battery was nearly flat) and pressing the buttons. Nothing would work, the alarm would stop after 10 or 20 seconds then just start going off again.

It started to become clear that the alarm wasn't going to stop so I had to take drastic measures. So I CUT off the the 4 leads just by the siren. Clever eh! Except the alarm was STILL going off So I removed the siren from the housing (getting deafened in the process) and took the siren inside (still blaring away!). Opened it up and it stopped (I disconnected the connector that feeds from a battery within).

So now, it's a couple of days later and I've got around to putting the thing back together. Battery now fully charged, and disconnected, cnnected up the 4 wires correctly (using insulated crimp connectors) and then reconnected the battery (in the siren housing) and finally reconnected the main car battery.

Battery is only a few months old (proper honda one, been working perfectly). All key fobs batteries are quite new and the ecu was replaced (H&P exchange) a few months ago and has been faultless since (apart from now )

I'll call H&P tomorrow but if anyone knows any suggestions?
Old 03-28-2011, 11:41 PM
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I'd take a guess that you've wiped the internal memory of the alarm.
I think that each alarm has one master fob that's hardcoded to it, but can learn other fobs.

Once you've wiped the internal memory only the master fob will work, and you need to use this to make it learn the new fobs.

It's possible that the master remote is the oldest and most battered remote you have and the least likely to work.

I had a similar problem my first winter with the car.
In the end I fixed it by putting new batteries in the remote and standing very close to the car.
I also had to slightly bend the arms for the battery connection to make sure there was decent contact.
Old 03-29-2011, 01:52 AM
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Thanks. None of the remotes work (it's an H&P unit on a MY03). One will be the "master" anyway.

All batteries replaced 3/4 months ago (when I got a new ECU and remote from H&P).

Which battery are you referring to, the car battery or the battery in the siren unit - or a different battery altogether, is there another one?

The centre console LED does not flash at all. The fact that I can start the car (phew) seems to indicate that the alarm has "disabled" itself altogether incl. it's own immobilizer. Either that or it has no power (does the battery in the siren unit power it all?).
Old 03-29-2011, 02:26 AM
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You've blown a fuse mate, exactly the same thing happened to me, except I was sodding around with my intake and had to move the speaker by extending the wires.

There is a block of fuses (4 I think) under the dash on the drivers side, up near the ignition barrel.

I think it may be a 10a one that'll have blown, but check em all.

They may be black taped over, but you'll feel the block and it'll just look existential to the OEM loom.

Let me know if you need any more help.

Dan
Old 03-29-2011, 06:04 AM
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Just got off the phone to H&P (nice people though, their support itself will stop me replacing the alarm with a faceless company) and that's exactly what they said!

Checked fuse and I think it's gone (I can see the bridging bit and it appears loose).

In case of any problems when I put a new fuse in (need to get a 3amp from somewhere!) and can't start the car, I'm not going to replace the fuse until the car is MOT'd once I finish suspension work. If not, it could end up stuck whilst H&P look at the board and I won't be able to get it to the garage
Old 03-29-2011, 06:11 AM
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You wont immobilise it mate, the default state is to deactivate the alarm, it cannot die and remain 'alarmed' under normal circumstances. If you got a ton of water into the module that may be possible etc.

Double check your wiring, and replace the fuse, you'll be fine :-)
Old 03-29-2011, 06:20 AM
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Thanks.

Suspension to all go back on tonight, oh what joy service and full geo next week and it's back to enjoying the car properly! Could have done without alarm problems but should be a cheap and easy fix with a new fuse.
Old 03-29-2011, 11:01 AM
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The H&P alarm / immobiliser fitted to the S2000 has a known hardware design fault that will more than likely
cause you grief at some point. The main header connecting the PCB and wiring loom isn't rated high enough
for the amount of current one of the immobilisation circuits draws through it, usual failure mode is a nasty melt down
with a potential fire risk.

Neither H&P or Honda UK are willing to do anything about it either, the only suggestion being to bridge the circuit out.
Old 03-31-2011, 01:18 PM
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Been around a while and not heard of that on here (that's not to say it doesn't happen). If there were a genuine common fire risk, Honda would recall them otherwise the bad PR would be widespread.

Anyway, new fuse in and it's good as new! result.
Old 12-02-2011, 02:43 AM
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Hi folks,

Apologies for the thread ressurrection.

I've just bought my Honda S2000 GT and its fitted with an 'H&P Security System' alarm/immobiliser...

Was this a factory/dealer fitted alarm or is it after market. If aftermarket do you know which model it is and whether its Cat 1 and a minimum of a Passive Arming 2-Circuit Type immobiliser?

Otherwise, Dracoro, would you do me a huge favour and give me the contact details for H&P??

Just need to know for the Insurance Company!

Thanks guys,
Rhauri


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