Horn Upgrade
#11
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Originally Posted by buaan,Jan 11 2010, 06:36 PM
I'm contemplating doing this soon, if you can put up some more detailed instructions on the wiring that would be great
The standard horn is bordering on dangerous!
The standard horn is bordering on dangerous!
When I can find my car (from under the snow) I will take a couple more pictures and post them up. However, it is a very straightforward job.
#12
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Originally Posted by m1bjr,Jan 11 2010, 09:32 AM
I've always found that if you have time to sound the horn then you have time to stop or avoid.
And it makes you feel sooooooo much better afterwards.
#13
Just bought one yesterday on the recommendations above from speeding.co.uk. cant stand the tweet tweet from the front end any more!!
Anyone fitted the Stebel to a MY 00??
I understand from searching through the forum, that the bumper has to come of on the MY 00-01, any way around this??
pics info etc., much appreciated,
cheers
Chris
Anyone fitted the Stebel to a MY 00??
I understand from searching through the forum, that the bumper has to come of on the MY 00-01, any way around this??
pics info etc., much appreciated,
cheers
Chris
#16
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got the steb on mine fitted in place of the standard, for the power i just removed the factory relay (left hand side of bay in box) and stuck a spade connector into the switched feed from the steering wheel, connected to battery and ground all done
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Originally Posted by smallmember,Jan 12 2010, 10:09 AM
I understand from searching through the forum, that the bumper has to come of on the MY 00-01, any way around this??
On my MY02 there were two horns. One where I have fitted the new horn, and one O/S/F behind the bumper.
I did not bother to remove the one behind the bumper. I simply removed the plastic trim at the front of the radiator, and put my arm down and disconnected it.
This can be difficult if you do not know how to disengage the connector. I would suggest you look at a similar connector which is in clear view and you will see where you have to press the connector to disconnect it.
#18
Thanks for the info guys, still waiting on the horn to be delivered, hopefully shouldnt be too long.
Ill post up feedback when i get it and get the time to fit it, really hope i can without removing the bumper.
in the meantime - i found this which may be of use for anything, online service manual...... 22-97 for the Horn section.
Service manual 1
Service manuals
Ill post up feedback when i get it and get the time to fit it, really hope i can without removing the bumper.
in the meantime - i found this which may be of use for anything, online service manual...... 22-97 for the Horn section.
Service manual 1
Service manuals
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I promised that I would post some additional details to help anyone who is uncertain as to how to carry out this installation, so here goes. It is very simple to do, and in my opinion is a must to replace the awful OEM horns!
As the air horn consumes more current than the horns it replaces a separate fused supply needs to be made through a relay. The relay (in this simple automotive application) is a switching device which allows a low current circuit (the OEM one) to operate a high current circuit (the new horn supply). I’m sure someone will post that you do not need a relay, but why risk burning out the horn push contacts or the wiring from it, when a suitable relay is supplied with the new horn?
The numbers shown on the schematic are the usual notation for this type of relay, and match those marked on the casing of the relay close to the spade connectors. Some relays have more than one output terminal (i.e. 87a, 87b, etc), but the one supplied did not. Note that the feed from the horn push is hot (live).
This picture shows the new horn supply connected directly to the live terminal of the battery.
This picture shows the in-line 20amp fuse (purchased from Halfords) between the battery and the relay.
This picture shows where I have located the relay. The earth connection is secured by the locating bolt.
The box containing the horn shows full fitting instructions including the correct grade of cable to use. As I’m an engineering pedant all my connections are soldered, but crimp fittings or similar would be OK.
HTH
As the air horn consumes more current than the horns it replaces a separate fused supply needs to be made through a relay. The relay (in this simple automotive application) is a switching device which allows a low current circuit (the OEM one) to operate a high current circuit (the new horn supply). I’m sure someone will post that you do not need a relay, but why risk burning out the horn push contacts or the wiring from it, when a suitable relay is supplied with the new horn?
The numbers shown on the schematic are the usual notation for this type of relay, and match those marked on the casing of the relay close to the spade connectors. Some relays have more than one output terminal (i.e. 87a, 87b, etc), but the one supplied did not. Note that the feed from the horn push is hot (live).
This picture shows the new horn supply connected directly to the live terminal of the battery.
This picture shows the in-line 20amp fuse (purchased from Halfords) between the battery and the relay.
This picture shows where I have located the relay. The earth connection is secured by the locating bolt.
The box containing the horn shows full fitting instructions including the correct grade of cable to use. As I’m an engineering pedant all my connections are soldered, but crimp fittings or similar would be OK.
HTH