markforrester99

Mines 14.6/14.7 at idle on dw800s. Idles bang on. Your earlier post on boost levels mine was hitting 13.3psi at 8750 rpm when been mapped.
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13.3 psi is too much according to what Evasive say for there pulley upgrade. They reckon with the different pulley you can only get 12psi but admittedly they probably limit the engine revs to 8500rpm.

"Yes, we can ship it to the UK. It will allow your supercharger to boost
about 11-12 psi. We use the same one on all our time attack cars."

Im not saying the boost didnt read that level but it can be down to gauge calibration etc. I know with my AEM map sensor it measures bang on zero with the engine off and the max boost i have ever recorded was 10.8psi.

Interesting about the injectors, mine run really lumpy below if i go below a certain millisecond injection time. I guess thats what you pay for when you get it mapped! With it mapped to about 13.9 afr it runs nice and smooth around 1150 rpm. I do have to run a high idle otherwise the engine tends to stall when the air con comes on and switches on the two Spal fans.

My kit is still going great probably done 1000miles in a couple of months, no issues with the standard clutch. Not using any additional oil. Only slight issue is that coolant temps get noticeably warmer but i guess this is to be expected as horsepower = heat.

s200059

I install the HKS kit back in April on a 2001 S2000 that is a closed course road race car used at tracks like Watkins Glen. The kit was installed on a built motor, 1000cc IDs, stock pulley with 10 psi and it doubled the HP and torque numbers. All necessary items have been upgraded to accommodate the added HP and heat.

The car is a real track weapon but problems are plaguing my race efforts. The car runs fine when your first get on track, but after 3-4 laps it gets heat soaked and I get what feels like a fuel starvation and the car cuts out between 6000-7000 rpms.

The wide band drops to 10 (thats the lowest the gauge goes) and the PSI also drops off. So it seems like a belt slippage issue. Installed a new belt, new fuel pump, new TPS and new MAP sensor and it did not solve the problem.

Some have said that the heat soak can cause the clutch in the blower to slip and drop boost. On cool days when temps are below 50 the car runs well for much longer (20 mins or more), but yesterday it was hot and it took less than 5 mins before it acted up.

It will be back on the dyno today and the tuner will once again see if he can get it hot enough to act up.

Curious if any others have had similar problems. I race here in the US with SCCA and hope to make it to the SCCA Runoffs but first need to solve this hesitation issue.

Define198

let me know what funky power say, they gave me a firm date of the shipment leaving on the 24th i am hoping this has not changed as i really need the clutch plate asap so i can get it installed.

markforrester99

Datalogs will reveal abit more info about your issues. Inlet temps could get high after a few laps. I have noticed since fitting the kit to everything is warmer under the bonnet.

If I was tracking the car on a regular basis I would add a fan to the chargers oil cooler or change the cooler for a larger one. Water method injection works well on SC applications especially if inlet temps are your issue

s200059

Good points, water/meth not allow in class, I suspect the oil cooler for HKS is not sufficent and is suspect. Hondata logs have been corrected and of not much value, but we will get better data today from dyno runs.

markforrester99

The HKS oil cooler is tiny compared to a decent mocal item. It might be worth emailing HKS and finding out what oil temperatures they recommend and trying to find out how hot yours is getting. Also another idea is to disconnect the bypass valve and vent it to atmosphere. The way the kit is set up hot air thats been compressed gets recirculated into the inlet stream with it vented to atmosphere the filter will only be taking in ambient air so should be abit cooler.

s200059

The HKS oil cooler is tiny compared to a decent mocal item. It might be worth emailing HKS and finding out what oil temperatures they recommend and trying to find out how hot yours is getting. Also another idea is to disconnect the bypass valve and vent it to atmosphere. The way the kit is set up hot air thats been compressed gets recirculated into the inlet stream with it vented to atmosphere the filter will only be taking in ambient air so should be abit cooler.
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I have a Mismoto oil cooler that I was going to use, but its tight with the engine oil cooler, larger Radiator and inter cooler all stuffed into a small area.

Is there any other oil you can use for the supercharger other than that pricey traction fluid ?

[attachment=95883:hks4.jpg]

scottietse

my car does get abit sluggish in traffic but in quite certain its the heat under the bonnet...

when the car starts moving again it becomes ok...

I have a vented bonnet but could do with abit more assistance

Ive even thought of trying to fit a fan in the bonnet to expell the hot air...

thought?

markforrester99

Its a difficult one regarding the heat management. Im sure that for street driving where your not hammering it all the time then the kit is fine in terms of cooling but on track you will run into issues quickly.

I have found on hot days that the car does feel sluggish compared to a cold evening. It still drives fine but you can feel some performance drop off. Im part way through install water injection which will cool down the intake temperatures significantly and the way i figure it is that if i use just water then its not costing me alot to fill up the 4litre tank in the boot every now and then and it will only inject during boost.

I think the biggest way to keep the car cooler would be a front bumper with a wider grill area. My intercooler blocks all of the airflow going through the grill and then on top of that it has to go through the air con rad before getting to the radiator. The air speed will have slowed down a fair bit going through all that resistance. I have a big Spal fan and a small fan and they don't struggle to keep the temperatures down on a warm day but ideally you don't want them running.

I have exchanged PM's with Mattie and he knows his stuff when it comes to S2000 cooling and he says a dual pass radiator is the way to go but the cost £600 there or there abouts is alot of investment to make on top of the charger. I think eventually i will get the dual pass radiator but for the time being i don't plan any trackdays so im happy to keep it how it is. One other thing that is often overlooked is bleeding every last bit of air out of the coolant system, it makes a big difference to its efficiency.

s200059

I have a custom made duel pass radiator which is well worth the investment. I also don't have air conditioning on the race car but I am not allowed to put vented hood on the car so the heat soak is a real problem.

I think I will try installing a larger oil cooler for the HKS system.

Also, the placement of the blower directly over the exhaust header has to be one of the most foolish designs I have seen for a performance car. Might as well install a Turbo and get all that unwanted heat into the engine bay !.
If the rules would allow it, I would install my Novi 1200 on the car and be done with it !.

BTW - I wrote to HKS and they said it can't be clutch slippage from the blower, they blamed the ECU TUNE causing the car to die.