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HKS SC kit topic

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Old 11-13-2016, 01:16 AM
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Are these genuine panels or repro?
Old 11-13-2016, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by johnckeen
Are these genuine panels or repro?
Genuine
Old 11-14-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by johnckeen
Are these genuine panels or repro?
We only supply genuine John
Old 11-14-2016, 05:53 AM
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IDs have been ordered. You guys run PnP harnesses or soldered them on? I prefer PnPs tbh; if someone could point me to a supplier of these that would be fab. (Im getting the crimp connectors with my IDs which I'll most probably end up binning) Fuel pump is next on the list.
Old 11-14-2016, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by markforrester99
I have been looking at finishing off my oil cooler install but i really don't fancy fitting a relocation kit so i have been looking at some alternatives.

Ive done alot of reading about the OEM oil filter and how it works and it appears during high oil flows ie trackdays that the oil filter will operate mostly in bypass so the engine oil isn't getting 100% filtered. When your cruising and everything is warmed up and up to temperature the vast majority of flow if not all will go through the oil filter material and pass into the engine keeping the oil nice and clean.

Now one of the options instead of a relocation kit is to chose a smaller oil filter and sandwich plate so that you have plenty of clearance between the filter and the intercooler pipework.

I have fitted Mahle part number OC647 ontop of the OEM cooler, Mocal Oil cooler sandwich plate. It's about 30mm shorter than the KN filter i have previously used. The specs are similar to the Honda S2000 filter with the only downside that the smaller amount of filter material will mean that the filter will probably spend more time in bypass but that doesn't overly bother me as my oil sees maybe 3,000 miles at most. The other downside is that the smaller amount of filter material will mean it will get restrictive alot sooner than a larger filter. To me this is a none issue thou as it will be changed every oil change.



I have just been out and fitted the sandwich plate and the new oil filter and although its abit tight to get the oil filter over the threaded spigot it does go on and once tightened down your left with about 10mm of clearance between the filter and the pipework.




I also made a slight modification to the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. I already have the higher temperature thermostat fitted to it but i also decided to drill a 9mm hole through the sandwich plate effectively acting as a bypass for the oil cooler. What this ends up doing is forcing most of the oil flow away from the oil cooler for 99% of the time but as soon as oil flow increases and the 9mm starts to become a restriction the oil will flow through my AN8 lines to my 19 row oil cooler and back round. This means that i can get away with running smaller and less clumbersome oil lines without a massive amount of pressure drop. It also means that the oil cooler will only really flow when there is high oil flow ie on track where as when cruising it will have hardly any flow or effect on the oil temperature.

In my mind it makes sense because if you don't do that your trying to force all of the engines oil pump output through an oil cooler that is not built to flow the amounts that the Honda S2000 see's. 60 litres per minute at 6000 rpm so imagine what the flow is at nearer 9000rpm.

If you look at the mocal oil cooler chart below you will see that as flow increases so does pressure drop. If the oil cooler is having to handle all the flow from the oil pump then it is also soon going to become a restriction and this will start straining the cooler more than it was perhaps designed for. I could of opted for a larger oil cooler which would reduce restriction but it's really tight trying to fit the cooler in as it is between the intercooler, ac pipes and the ac radiator.



To test the theory i let the car warm up and cycle the fans a few times. I then checked the temperature of the oil filter which was at around 90c so i knew that by then the mocal thermostat would be fully closed. The oil cooler at this point was warm but not excessively hot, around 45c. I then revved the car to 4k and held it there and continued to check the oil cooler temperature which continued until it hit about 60c and i let off. This shows that the oil cooler is only seeing flow once the engine oil is warm. The downside to the 9mm drilled hole is that instead of say 60 litres of oil going through the cooler a minute i might have say 15 litres. This won't make a huge amount of difference as the oil will still be cooled fine, the change in flow will have minimal effect.



I need to tidy it up abit and check that there are no leaks and the pipe isn't going to rub on any components but other than that it seems fine. I will do some more testing once the bumper is back on and will post to let you know if i suffer from any issues with the smaller filter.
Just to finish this off completely and make it even better for track use i purchased an oil filter stopper to ensure the mahle item doesnt work loose.

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I took the car out on sunday to give it abit of a thrash and ensure everything was leak free. On the plus side im not experiencing any oil pressure lose even with the additional oil cooler. My 9mm hole i drilled through the sandwich plate must be reducing the pressure lose quite abit. I can confirm that when you start getting to about 3000 rpm oil starts to flow through the oil cooler nicely so its only experiencing flow once the oil pump starts flowing.

After a hard run the oil cooler is nice and warm so it will do the job i intended but at the same time i wont suffer the pressure lose experienced with oil to air coolers.

Pretty chuffed with the results and with the stopper fitted theres no chance the filter or cooler sandwich plate can move anywhere.
Old 11-14-2016, 10:27 PM
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Useful stuff, thanks Mark. I'm keeping an eye on this lot for ideas on my TTS setup.
Old 11-15-2016, 12:22 AM
  #1117  

 
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I cut and crimped my ID plugs but PnP is much easier if you can get some in time.
TBH when i did mine i just assumed you had to cut and crimp, didnt realise you can get a PnP harness to convert obd to USCAR which is the conversion you need btw

Also if you are throwing your ID plugs away could i possibly have them? I broke the lock clip on one of mine so when its pushed in it doesnt click down. Trying to find a replacement is impossible
Old 11-15-2016, 12:24 AM
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Also does anyone have any issues with the intake pipe being very close to the bottom pulley wheel on the bracket? I can see some marks where its obviously touched at some point, there is only an inch if that between them.
Old 11-15-2016, 12:33 AM
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Triple post...

Video of one of the pulls
Yes the wheels are different colours, when i bought the set one was cracked and buckled...
Old 11-15-2016, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by johnckeen
Also does anyone have any issues with the intake pipe being very close to the bottom pulley wheel on the bracket? I can see some marks where its obviously touched at some point, there is only an inch if that between them.
It shouldn't be touching, you have the bracket that holds the two intake pipes together. Its a case of loosening that bracket up and then pushing the pipe thats rubbing down and tightening the bracket at the same time.

You might need to loosen off the silicon coupler because that might be pushing the pipe up too close to the pulley bracket. I have done probably 3000 odd miles and its not rubbed once.


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