The Floppy Saga (Formerly The Transplant)
#192
#193
Registered User
Thread Starter
Since I last posted I've got my backside into gear and finally fitted my boomslang harness and VAFCII. Other than that the car hasn't had much attention or been driven much at all as I've been so busy developing the business.
Anyway, I've had the car on a rolling road, which was a Dyno Dynamics one and Romain Levesque has taken a look at it. However, due to the VAFCII only being able to remove fuel trim he has advised me that the car is at risk of running too lean and that I should either upgrade my ECU to something like an AEM EMS or not to put any further mods on it like a manifold.
The car feels much smoother now as there isn't a pronounced change over when the cam profile changes.
Anyway, I've had the car on a rolling road, which was a Dyno Dynamics one and Romain Levesque has taken a look at it. However, due to the VAFCII only being able to remove fuel trim he has advised me that the car is at risk of running too lean and that I should either upgrade my ECU to something like an AEM EMS or not to put any further mods on it like a manifold.
The car feels much smoother now as there isn't a pronounced change over when the cam profile changes.
#194
Registered User
Romain is great, havent a bad word to say about him.
I had him tune mine with an aem ems v1 which is seriously worth the money.
Would be interesting to see what power you make with a proper ems.
I doubt if you ran the car for a short while (6 months tops) it would do any damage.
Suppose you could bork the 02 sensors if running too lean.
Should be ok but not ideal.
I had him tune mine with an aem ems v1 which is seriously worth the money.
Would be interesting to see what power you make with a proper ems.
I doubt if you ran the car for a short while (6 months tops) it would do any damage.
Suppose you could bork the 02 sensors if running too lean.
Should be ok but not ideal.
#195
Is there any option regarding tuning the length of the intake track,that airbox has nice transition,
thats going on the theory >short =rich,long= lean.Or was it suggested going back to stock intake?
also regarding lowering vtec,<have read 4750 beneficial> is the only option with non DBW <04>to use AEM V1 also and including using Boomslang options ? or does one need DBW conversion seems costly though.
Any AFR sheets with your dyno ?
Love your wheel paint choice hyper silver powder coat can that go over paint or need to be striped back to metal
thats going on the theory >short =rich,long= lean.Or was it suggested going back to stock intake?
also regarding lowering vtec,<have read 4750 beneficial> is the only option with non DBW <04>to use AEM V1 also and including using Boomslang options ? or does one need DBW conversion seems costly though.
Any AFR sheets with your dyno ?
Love your wheel paint choice hyper silver powder coat can that go over paint or need to be striped back to metal
#196
Registered User
Thread Starter
Romain is great, havent a bad word to say about him.
I had him tune mine with an aem ems v1 which is seriously worth the money.
Would be interesting to see what power you make with a proper ems.
I doubt if you ran the car for a short while (6 months tops) it would do any damage.
Suppose you could bork the 02 sensors if running too lean.
Should be ok but not ideal.
I had him tune mine with an aem ems v1 which is seriously worth the money.
Would be interesting to see what power you make with a proper ems.
I doubt if you ran the car for a short while (6 months tops) it would do any damage.
Suppose you could bork the 02 sensors if running too lean.
Should be ok but not ideal.
Is there any option regarding tuning the length of the intake track,that airbox has nice transition,
thats going on the theory >short =rich,long= lean.Or was it suggested going back to stock intake?
also regarding lowering vtec,<have read 4750 beneficial> is the only option with non DBW <04>to use AEM V1 also and including using Boomslang options ? or does one need DBW conversion seems costly though.
Any AFR sheets with your dyno ?
Love your wheel paint choice hyper silver powder coat can that go over paint or need to be striped back to metal
thats going on the theory >short =rich,long= lean.Or was it suggested going back to stock intake?
also regarding lowering vtec,<have read 4750 beneficial> is the only option with non DBW <04>to use AEM V1 also and including using Boomslang options ? or does one need DBW conversion seems costly though.
Any AFR sheets with your dyno ?
Love your wheel paint choice hyper silver powder coat can that go over paint or need to be striped back to metal
Unfortunately I didn't think to ask for a print out of the AFR but Romain did show me that there was a big spike if he tried to play with the mixture at all.
As far as the DBW situation I have no idea as Ive had an MY04, MY00 and this is an MY02. I know you can get a K Pro 100 for DBW cars and the AEM but thats as far as my knowledge goes I'm afraid. The boomslang was bought just so that I didn't have to splice into the OEM loom to fit the VAFCII though. The AEM completely replaces the stock ECU so there would be no need for any sort of harness.
Glad you like the wheels, I love them finished in the silver compared to when they were gunmetal, they stand out much more! Powdercoat does mean you'll need to get the wheels back to bare metal so you wouldn't be able to do it over the existing paint you have.
#197
Registered User
Thread Starter
Since having the VAFCII set up I've done very little driving as it only took a few weeks until one of the front brake callipers started intermittently sticking quite severely. As the rears were dusting up way faster than the fronts I guessed that they were needing to be looked at as well.
So, after parking the car up for about a month I finally found time to remove the calipers and carriers and get all 4 of them sent off to Bigg Red to get a full refurb. I got them back today, which is about 2 weeks after initial postage. The finish on the calipers themselves is great and they look like they're brand new but I wasn't best pleased that they have returned the carriers without re-assembling the slider pins and boots.
After ringing them they said they don't do that as they don't know which is top and which is bottom...surely if they dismantled them they could have put a bit of tape on them to know?! I pointed out to them that if they don't how am I expected to. They were apologetic and after also telling them that 2 of the carriers had a chip in the paint they offered a refund of return carriage and 10% off.
It's not too bad but I'm neither happy or pleased with the work now as I have carriers that I need to mess about touching up with a dab of hammerite as well as the carriers that need re-assembling when my expectation was to bolt them straight back onto the car.
Can anyone help with the bolt situation and how the boots are supposed to fit so the pin itself isn't open to dirt and debris? some of the pins have a flattened section on them so I presume one is top and one is bottom for each. Also, how do the pins stay in place and where is the best place to get the correct grease from?
Here are some pics of the calipers and the pins for reference.
TIA!
So, after parking the car up for about a month I finally found time to remove the calipers and carriers and get all 4 of them sent off to Bigg Red to get a full refurb. I got them back today, which is about 2 weeks after initial postage. The finish on the calipers themselves is great and they look like they're brand new but I wasn't best pleased that they have returned the carriers without re-assembling the slider pins and boots.
After ringing them they said they don't do that as they don't know which is top and which is bottom...surely if they dismantled them they could have put a bit of tape on them to know?! I pointed out to them that if they don't how am I expected to. They were apologetic and after also telling them that 2 of the carriers had a chip in the paint they offered a refund of return carriage and 10% off.
It's not too bad but I'm neither happy or pleased with the work now as I have carriers that I need to mess about touching up with a dab of hammerite as well as the carriers that need re-assembling when my expectation was to bolt them straight back onto the car.
Can anyone help with the bolt situation and how the boots are supposed to fit so the pin itself isn't open to dirt and debris? some of the pins have a flattened section on them so I presume one is top and one is bottom for each. Also, how do the pins stay in place and where is the best place to get the correct grease from?
Here are some pics of the calipers and the pins for reference.
TIA!
#199
UK Moderator
Floppy,
See page 19-15 of the service manual if you have it for the fronts. the pin with the flat bits goes on the top.
Page 19-25 has the rears, where the pin with the flat bolts goes on the bottom.
Those pages also show how everything fits together. Some of this grease is ok for the slider pins http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and there are a few threads on this with some useful suggestions - search for Red Rubber grease.
The boots hold the pins in place, you fit the boot to the carrier, and then push the pin through theboot into the slider and the boot will catch the lip on pin. I found it a bit of a fiddle but got there in the end, and if I can do it, anyone can
See page 19-15 of the service manual if you have it for the fronts. the pin with the flat bits goes on the top.
Page 19-25 has the rears, where the pin with the flat bolts goes on the bottom.
Those pages also show how everything fits together. Some of this grease is ok for the slider pins http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and there are a few threads on this with some useful suggestions - search for Red Rubber grease.
The boots hold the pins in place, you fit the boot to the carrier, and then push the pin through theboot into the slider and the boot will catch the lip on pin. I found it a bit of a fiddle but got there in the end, and if I can do it, anyone can
#200
edit: what LG said If you put the pins in the wrong way around you can cause them to bind through heat, that's what the bevelling is for so the hottest pin doesn't seize in the slider.