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Engine Run-In Period

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Old 02-09-2006, 01:23 AM
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You may be right on the uphill bit but the essence is hard acceleration followed by hard engine braking, but only when the engine is fully warmed up.

Check this link:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Old 02-09-2006, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fluffyninja,Feb 9 2006, 10:18 AM

On a secondary note, if you test as per the manufacturers recommendation then they've no comeback at a later date if something did go wrong
Well the garage will have no means of knowing so I wouldn't worry about that.
Old 02-09-2006, 01:26 AM
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Hi FluffyNinja!

So, when I pick up my S, what should the dealer have already done to the engine (if anything) ?
Old 02-09-2006, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Welshman,Feb 9 2006, 10:25 AM
Well the garage will have no means of knowing so I wouldn't worry about that.
You'd be amazed what we can find out. Regular CSI, me
Old 02-09-2006, 01:35 AM
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Changed the short-block for a start

I'd expect them to have taken it out for a drive to confirm the repair but specifics as to RPM and the like will essentially be up to them
Old 02-09-2006, 02:17 AM
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And what about oil? What should they have used and, more importantly, what shouldn't they have used ?
Old 02-09-2006, 02:21 AM
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Mineral Oil 10w/30 or a 10w/40 is recommended along with Honda molybendium additive.
Old 02-09-2006, 02:21 AM
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they should have filled it with mineral oil, and put in a molybdenum additive in it for the first 9k miles.
Old 02-09-2006, 11:32 AM
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The ring pacakge and bore material on the F20C isn't the usual fare. I'd strongly suggest following Honda's recommendation (as AE has approximiated). With the F20C you tend to not lose out on seal, as much as oil control if you do it carelessly.

-Brian.
Old 02-10-2006, 07:28 AM
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Flips a new engine and clutch!! How much did that set you back? Or was it a waranty job?


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