Engine Lifespan MY99 - MY02
#61
I assume that compression testing will tell you about other issues .....
If you buy parts from the USA and import them in one box - it's a good 60% cheaper than buying the parts here. If you're over there on business, you could bring them back in hand luggage!
I doubt a full set of valves, bearings, retainers + timiing chain. tensioner etc etc etc would set you back more than 500 quid all in. Labour for the job would be reduced a little as it would be a combination of things.
This is one of the primary reasons i'm looking at an MX5 as a replacement - the cost of parts / engines is far far less. You can get two whole cars for the price of one S2000 engine.
If you buy parts from the USA and import them in one box - it's a good 60% cheaper than buying the parts here. If you're over there on business, you could bring them back in hand luggage!
I doubt a full set of valves, bearings, retainers + timiing chain. tensioner etc etc etc would set you back more than 500 quid all in. Labour for the job would be reduced a little as it would be a combination of things.
This is one of the primary reasons i'm looking at an MX5 as a replacement - the cost of parts / engines is far far less. You can get two whole cars for the price of one S2000 engine.
#62
Originally Posted by lower' timestamp='1312298596' post='20838945
If you're worried about an over rev in you car's previous history, change the valve stem retainers. They can get damaged in an over rev situation and then cause a dropped valve with catastrophic damage.
-Brian.
They're not expensive anyway so just worth changing rather than inspecting.
#63
If you drop the motor to carry out preventative maintenance like bearings, what else do you replace while it's out?
Valve retainers? But then if you're splitting the head for that, you'd clean all the valves up and look to replace the valve stem seals probably. (Well I would)
Valve retainers? But then if you're splitting the head for that, you'd clean all the valves up and look to replace the valve stem seals probably. (Well I would)
Bearings can also be done with the engine is situ.
But i can see where you're coming from.
#65
Registered User
Hey everyone,
My MY99 is on 90k , and gets driven how it was designed to be, in VTEC lol
I disagree with people saying the MY99-MY01 break down, it's bull, it's how they've been treat, nearly all failures are by lazy/clumsy owners, which is usually either low oil or mechanical over rev .
People seem to be having more problems with newer S2000's engines, my theory is , the earlier S2000's are built more carefully with better quality parts, and as more and more are made, more carelessness and cheaper parts prevale.
You can usually tell a good S2000 by how it looks, if it's mint chances are th engines been cared for too. Always go with your gut instinct , I know of my99,s in the states are now at over 200k
My MY99 is on 90k , and gets driven how it was designed to be, in VTEC lol
I disagree with people saying the MY99-MY01 break down, it's bull, it's how they've been treat, nearly all failures are by lazy/clumsy owners, which is usually either low oil or mechanical over rev .
People seem to be having more problems with newer S2000's engines, my theory is , the earlier S2000's are built more carefully with better quality parts, and as more and more are made, more carelessness and cheaper parts prevale.
You can usually tell a good S2000 by how it looks, if it's mint chances are th engines been cared for too. Always go with your gut instinct , I know of my99,s in the states are now at over 200k
#66
#67
Originally Posted by J_D' timestamp='1312402142' post='20844011
You can usually tell a good S2000 by how it looks, if it's mint chances are th engines been cared for too.
#68
Registered User
I think you get what I mean lol
I went to look at loads of S2000's before mine, and I was set on getting a later model with a glass screen etc, but mine was a better car through and through, I think you can generally tell from condition
Another thing I did just to make sure after I bought it, I changed every fluid and filter on the car just to make sure Honda hadn't missed anything, and it seems to have payed off.
I went to look at loads of S2000's before mine, and I was set on getting a later model with a glass screen etc, but mine was a better car through and through, I think you can generally tell from condition
Another thing I did just to make sure after I bought it, I changed every fluid and filter on the car just to make sure Honda hadn't missed anything, and it seems to have payed off.
#69
Registered User
I can't get past thinking that those people who are talking about replacing bearings, also have to consider that every other component in the engine is also 100k miles plus.
If you drop the motor to carry out preventative maintenance like bearings, what else do you replace while it's out?
Valve retainers? But then if you're splitting the head for that, you'd clean all the valves up and look to replace the valve stem seals probably. (Well I would)
Then you have new bearings and a decent top end on 100k mile set of rods, rings and bores...You've minmised the risk of bearing failure but what if your cam chain fails? What state are your cams in?
How far do you go?
The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking of buying my replacement engine now and spending some time tinkering with it while it's in the dining room.... (I have no garage and a very understanding wife)
If you drop the motor to carry out preventative maintenance like bearings, what else do you replace while it's out?
Valve retainers? But then if you're splitting the head for that, you'd clean all the valves up and look to replace the valve stem seals probably. (Well I would)
Then you have new bearings and a decent top end on 100k mile set of rods, rings and bores...You've minmised the risk of bearing failure but what if your cam chain fails? What state are your cams in?
How far do you go?
The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking of buying my replacement engine now and spending some time tinkering with it while it's in the dining room.... (I have no garage and a very understanding wife)
Bearings, Rods (a wear item given the size of them and stressed involved), big end bolts, valve guides, valve retainers, valve stem seals, valve springs, cam chain, piston rings (oversize deoending on bore), head gasket, head studs, water pump
I'd then check to see the following:
Bore wear (even bore wear at that), valve stems (for wear), oil pump, i'd probably send the crank off to get fully lightened and balanced since it's out, pistons.
All done
#70
Registered User
And while that's fine for those of us who enjoy tinkering and getting oily elbows (ignoring the fact mine is my daily driver), that's gonna be a lot of cash for someone who's sending it off to a garage and paying hourly market rates.