eSeM

The rain on Saturday meant that I didn't get to swap the front Wilwood calipers and replace the break fluid until today.

Took the car out for a run tonight and I still got problems with the rear calipers sticking ..... but there is a pattern. Calipers are tending to seize after I bring the car to a stop and then as I pull away I can feel them sticking. This has happened 3 times over the past week when I have stopped the car to reverse into a parking space.

I think I need to finish off sorting out my spare set of rears and get them on the car asap.

eSeM

Pins are fine.

eSeM

Today I fitted a set of rear calipers that I had cleaned up during the week and fitted new seals onto ....

Took the car out for a test run and the brakes were fine ....

Later I took the car out again for a short run but at one point the brake pedal went rock hard and if felt as though the rear calipers were sticking again. Sure enough when I stopped the back wheels were considerably hotter than the fronts. This is similar to other times I have had the brakes sticking.

So I don't think the problem is the calipers, it must be somewhere else in the braking system. Anyone got any ideas?

I took the calipers I had refurbished by Bigg Red apart .... and except from the dust seals everything looked fine. The dust seals were not the same as OEM or the ones I got last week from Brakes International and they had deformed, possibly due to the excessive heat.

Daytona-Dave

i would check the brake hose's first

markforrester99

Yeah like Dave says brake hoses when they fail can act like a check valve. It only needs to hold abit of pressure on the piston and the brakes will drag.

lovegroova

Steve, thinking about it, it would be well worth getting the brake pipes themselves checked out too, especially underneath the fuel tank.

A fair few people have had MOT failures because of this, so corrosion is well worth checking too (though I'd do what RayDave suggests first).

eSeM

I knew I had some spare rear brake lines in the garage and I was right, I had 3 pairs of them ....

So I set about replacing the brake lines but the off-side flare nut was very badly corroded and a bitch to get off. When I got everything back together and started bleeding the brakes I found I had managed to split the pipe so I now have no choice but to replace the pipes and I may as well do both rears at the same time.

There didn't appear to be any problems with the hoses that I replaced so it is looking like the pipes could be the cause of my problems .... or maybe just the next thing on the list to replace.

s2k4tony

It could be pointing towards the master cylinder being at fault, but you'd have a weird clutch... or the ABS pump beginning to fail. Could well be at the point where it isn't throwing a fault yet, but might do soon. Just throwing other ideas at you in case they were missed :-)

Nick Graves

Found this guide:

link

eSeM

I am in the process of disconnecting everything so I can lower the rear subframe enough to allow me to install new rear brake pipes.

If I am only dropping the subframe by about 10cm do I need to disconnect the drive shaft? I can't easily get into this with a 6mm allen socket and the bolt heads are corroded so worried that I will just round the heads off.

Brake pipes are very badly corroded near to the wheel arches and also one of the fuel pipes. Nothing else looks too bad .... so far.

After removing my exhaust I have discovered that the substrate on my hi-flow cat is screwed and will need to be replaced