Endless Rear Caliper Problems .....
#21
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Really! If you do a search on the forums you will find that this is not always the case and that you sometimes need to apply pressure as you rotate the pistons. In this instance no amount of pressure I can exert whilst rotating the piston is making it retract.
I have had 4 different sets of rear calipers on the car and have installed umpteen sets of pads for myself and for others .... you would think that I would have got the hang of it by now.
As I said above, I have had a lot of issues with sticking pistons over the years but this is the first time I have been unable to wind the pistons back into the calipers.
Maybe you know this already
As I said above, I have had a lot of issues with sticking pistons over the years but this is the first time I have been unable to wind the pistons back into the calipers.
#22
The proper tool pushes in as it turns. Shame Steven won't tell us what he actually did.
#23
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It sounds as if what's happening is the pin is binding onto the piston & rotating with it, rather than screwing onto it. That suggests the rubber seal may not be tight enough - or the piston seal's too tight.
Is there a way of gripping the end if the pin with something soft-faced?
But the gradual non-retraction does suggest piston to bore corrosion - and it's happening a bit quick. Are you using racing fluid by any chance?
Is there a way of gripping the end if the pin with something soft-faced?
But the gradual non-retraction does suggest piston to bore corrosion - and it's happening a bit quick. Are you using racing fluid by any chance?
I will almost certainly be sorting out my spare set of calipers and will stick them on the car at the weekend. Then I can pull these refurbed ones apart and see what is up with them .... that is assuming the calipers are the problem.
#24
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I was using a big G-Clamp to hold the caliper in position and then a big file with a flat end and another G-Clamp attached to the other end to push and rotate the piston.
The caliper piston winding tool jams as it can't compress the piston into the caliper.
The caliper piston winding tool jams as it can't compress the piston into the caliper.
#25
Originally Posted by mdb_75' timestamp='1410870861' post='23332809
As long as you wind them clockwise they pull themselves in all the way.
Maybe you know this already
As I said above, I have had a lot of issues with sticking pistons over the years but this is the first time I have been unable to wind the pistons back into the calipers.
#26
Tony could be right. If the pin won't turn in the piston, you'd be able to turn the piston but not screw it in. Getting it out might be interesting too.
#27
Could be a bad refurb too, they aren't all perfect. Some have cheapo rubber boots installed and can easily perish quicker than OEM
When i've time, I'll be refurbing my own corroded one and selling it on with new OEM rubber boot. Only cost £49.99 for the refurb item in the first place, i'll probably make it back on fleabay (or almost, unless I get scammed again!).
Good luck, keep us informed when/if you strip it down. Right messy stuff brake fluid! But fun all the same to do a new little project
When i've time, I'll be refurbing my own corroded one and selling it on with new OEM rubber boot. Only cost £49.99 for the refurb item in the first place, i'll probably make it back on fleabay (or almost, unless I get scammed again!).
Good luck, keep us informed when/if you strip it down. Right messy stuff brake fluid! But fun all the same to do a new little project
#28
Originally Posted by Nick Graves' timestamp='1410868951' post='23332765
It sounds as if what's happening is the pin is binding onto the piston & rotating with it, rather than screwing onto it. That suggests the rubber seal may not be tight enough - or the piston seal's too tight.
Is there a way of gripping the end if the pin with something soft-faced?
But the gradual non-retraction does suggest piston to bore corrosion - and it's happening a bit quick. Are you using racing fluid by any chance?
Is there a way of gripping the end if the pin with something soft-faced?
But the gradual non-retraction does suggest piston to bore corrosion - and it's happening a bit quick. Are you using racing fluid by any chance?
I will almost certainly be sorting out my spare set of calipers and will stick them on the car at the weekend. Then I can pull these refurbed ones apart and see what is up with them .... that is assuming the calipers are the problem.
You do seem to get through a lot of them, though. I do wonder if it's the brake fluid, or something else setting it off? Other them simply being stood in a damp, shady area & not driven enough.
We had a new set of rears on the 'Lude & fronts rebuilt on the Civic & that's been it. The S as is an indoor car, so freeing-off is all that's been required.
I wonder if the Wilwoods have moved the brake balance backwards due to different piston displacement and you might be overheating them?
These are all just guesses - rip them apart!
#29
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Got a set of seals delivered today so I have been out in the garage taking my spare set of calipers apart. The left hand caliper is the original one from the car and apart from a seized slider pin it was pretty much OK, only a very slight bit of pitting on the piston that wont cause an issue.
It has always been the right hand caliper on the rear that I have had problems with and I have always thought that it was due to the position the car gets parked in, the right side of the car gets the worst of the weather but the other side is pretty much protected.
My spare right hand caliper is (currently) in very good condition, no pitting on the piston whatsoever (the reason I kept it). I am going to replace the seals and re-grease both calipers and hopefully get them on the car at the weekend ....
Then I can take the refurbed ones apart ... and see WTF is up with them.
#30
I just briefly went through all the posts, but have you made sure the slide pins are moving freely? I know it sounds basic, but if one of them is sticking it can cause some pretty quirky brake issues.
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