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Diff or Clutch?

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Old 07-20-2010, 02:07 PM
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Default Diff or Clutch?

Howdy!

So I have a bit of an issue.

I had my clutch replaced about 3000 miles ago, by Phillips Motor Services in Fleet.

Its been fine, a bit sharp, but that's to be expected - it's a 3 puck, spoon metal race clutch.

Driving along the other day, and the car suddenly started what felt like clutch slip. revs raising, speed not changing. Surely not a worn clutch already?

I have no choice but to drive the car - I rely on it daily - so driving home from work, it slipped again, but whilst I was going around corners - it still slips in a straight line, but its worse in corners.

I'm a reasonably competent mechanic, and my old man is trained in the spanners, so I am planning on getting it on ramps next weekend, however before that, I'd like some opinion.

To my mind, there are two potential causes. Clutch, and Diff.

Can anyone tell me what it's like when the LS diff goes on one of these things?

all comments gratefully received, assuming they don't contain "you fat bstd, what do you expect with the drive train pulling all that weight"

Many thanks
Brad
Old 07-20-2010, 02:18 PM
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could be not enough clutch pedal free play so the fluid pressure builds up and holds the clutch on slightly.

see if the clutch fork will move slightly for free play first before adjusting the pedal free play.
Old 07-20-2010, 02:24 PM
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I wondered about that - The reservoir was full when I took the cap off, so I emptied some fluid out - would the system over pressurise and then seal? if so, do I just need to bleed the clutch?
Old 07-20-2010, 11:42 PM
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Diff is not a true LSD, rather a Torsen diff.

It is fully geared, so no way it could slip. When they fail they either fail catastrophically or just get very noisy with vibration.

It's your clutch i'm afraid.

Puck clutches do wear a lot more quickly than standard full pressure type plate clutches.

Bleeding might help, but it sounds like the clutch is failing.
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