Cooling Help
#12
Thats exactly right! excpet woult cut them out compeltely the whole vent, probably on both sides for my OCD!
interesting way they have mounted it though, will go have a look over the car in a minute (no engine in currently) so will be easy to figure it!
interesting way they have mounted it though, will go have a look over the car in a minute (no engine in currently) so will be easy to figure it!
#13
I'm still in the middle of fitting it all. Really happy with the position, it's right behind the vent so should get good airflow and the pipe run is pretty short also. I will be cutting both vents out fully, supercharger oil cooler is going behind the other one.
#15
Registered User
Have you had a look in Mattie's topic? I'm pretty sure he's worked out what works best on his car when he did the supercharger.
Oh and have you got a vented bonnet?
Oh and have you got a vented bonnet?
#16
then thinking of going for the APR splitter for the underside but not sure on that yet!
#18
Separate your coolers- put your oil coolers behind each bumper vent like so-
Add a nice vmount with ducting a vented bonnet and wrap your manifold. Then you just need to develop your air intake. Ill see if i dig out a pic of what i did for that aswell.
Then somehow box it in behind a bumper vent and go test
When it comes to radiators i really dont know the answer. I too am on the look out for a more effiecient radiator. Currently i have a Misshimoto rad/thermostat and have to limit track sessions time wise or the water temp just creeps up and up. Highest ive seen so far is 101c. Oil temps never above 102. Ive got Motul Inugel and super cool additive but need to work on ducting.
#19
Originally Posted by SCharged2000' timestamp='1378207148' post='22758429
anyone have advice on powerful fans? snorkel or which is the best rad to go for?
Separate your coolers- put your oil coolers behind each bumper vent like so-
Add a nice vmount with ducting a vented bonnet and wrap your manifold. Then you just need to develop your air intake. Ill see if i dig out a pic of what i did for that aswell.
Then somehow box it in behind a bumper vent and go test
When it comes to radiators i really dont know the answer. I too am on the look out for a more effiecient radiator. Currently i have a Misshimoto rad/thermostat and have to limit track sessions time wise or the water temp just creeps up and up. Highest ive seen so far is 101c. Oil temps never above 102. Ive got Motul Inugel and super cool additive but need to work on ducting.
I like what youve donw with your intake / having the vents on the front of the bumper! Did you do those yourself or are they availavle on the market to buy?
My friend mentioned to me that i should have a thermostatic plate? not sure what that is but do you also have one?
as ragards to the fan that makes sense actually - if i am having the V mount then why would i have a fan flowing air in the other way that i want it as the v mount will push more air through the rad in the other direction!
I think i will have to get some new guages (water and oil temp) and then test on track to see if my new setup is providing the correct cooling for the car.
I am only really being so careful as i have had serious heat issues on the track before and dont want to damage the new engine im getting as is a road car, not just a track toy!
I'll keep searching for the best option for the most efficient rad, if i get any solid research ill link it to you!
- in the mean time if anyone has any suggestions / ways they can point me i would be very greatful!
cheers
#20
You definitely need gauges especially if you have a MK1 instrument cluster, that basically only shows 3 temps -cold/normal/new head gasket !
If you use an AEM ecu, get an aem serial gauge. That can stream data from your ecu, although they do need a bit of setting up. What I find useful with the serial is water temp and IATs. It also mirrors the Lambda sensor reading and can be set up to display other things. You will need a separate gauge for oIl temp and maybe even an oil pressure gauge.
Ive got a thermostatic takeoff plate. The idea is the oil flow is restricted to the oil cooler below a certain temperature. That means the engine oil can warm up quickly then when the temp is above that of thermostats value it opens and allows oil to flow the cooler. (same idea as the water thermostat, which i don't think you should change)
Have you got a baffled sump?
If you use an AEM ecu, get an aem serial gauge. That can stream data from your ecu, although they do need a bit of setting up. What I find useful with the serial is water temp and IATs. It also mirrors the Lambda sensor reading and can be set up to display other things. You will need a separate gauge for oIl temp and maybe even an oil pressure gauge.
Ive got a thermostatic takeoff plate. The idea is the oil flow is restricted to the oil cooler below a certain temperature. That means the engine oil can warm up quickly then when the temp is above that of thermostats value it opens and allows oil to flow the cooler. (same idea as the water thermostat, which i don't think you should change)
Have you got a baffled sump?