Cooling/Coolant system issues
08-06-2009, 01:31 AM
#52
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Originally Posted by kitkat,Aug 6 2009, 09:05 AM
you can do that but it will run like a dog beyond 3.5k as you have high boost and larger injectors you will of course run the risk of fouling the plugs too - you could of course throw back in oem injectors and ecu to make it more driveable while the sc is running belt off.
08-06-2009, 01:31 AM
#53
Originally Posted by AquilaEagle,Aug 5 2009, 04:59 PM
Having my head crack tested and skimmed was the end to my last engine at 126k miles, and it wasn't S/C'd. It lasted a month before throwing a rod. 
The conclusion was it didn't like the increased compression with so many miles on the clock.
Go careful Lloyd, this modification business can get expensive!
The conclusion was it didn't like the increased compression with so many miles on the clock.
Go careful Lloyd, this modification business can get expensive!
It's why I tend to prefer an unopened s/h factory engine, over a rebuild.
A duff HG could lead to washing oil off the bores, leading to the rings picking up, leading to small end exiting stage left.
You really want to be going for a lower CR, not a higher one with FI.
08-06-2009, 01:31 AM
#54
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Originally Posted by Kawasakivtec,Aug 6 2009, 08:12 AM
I may well take you up on your offer, currently thinking of removing head one weekend, getting it checked out and then reassembling a few weeks later.
I'd also get the head de-coked and the valves/seats re-ground whilst you're getting it skimmed/tested.
08-06-2009, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey k,Aug 6 2009, 09:28 AM
Swap the whole lot for a EUDM F20C 
Similar money, quicker, no internals disturbed, slightly lower compression ratio
Similar money, quicker, no internals disturbed, slightly lower compression ratio
08-06-2009, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey k,Aug 6 2009, 09:40 AM
easier and quicker than all the messing around he is considering at the moment!Just don't do it on your drive during winter.
08-06-2009, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey k,Aug 6 2009, 10:28 AM
Swap the whole lot for a EUDM F20C
Similar money, quicker, no internals disturbed, slightly lower compression ratio
Hi Ben
08-06-2009, 06:44 AM
#59
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Potential issues with overheating:
Warping of the head (can be very likely)
Warping of the block (less likely)
Distortion of the bores
The latter can be the most serious due to causing unusual loading on the piston. That can cause pick up on the piston which will wreck the piston/rings. It's not too common (would have to be chronic for this but since you've been driving for a month it's worth checking it out)
I think that was the cause of AE's failure. Long time since I looked at it but IIRC he'd had some overheating issue a few months previously and I believe the piston/bore had started to be damaged in this time. The head was sorted but the block wasn't and eventually failed as it was run more.
Since you'll already be having the head off I'd look at getting the pistons out and checking for signs of abnormal wear/damage in the bores.
Warping of the head (can be very likely)
Warping of the block (less likely)
Distortion of the bores
The latter can be the most serious due to causing unusual loading on the piston. That can cause pick up on the piston which will wreck the piston/rings. It's not too common (would have to be chronic for this but since you've been driving for a month it's worth checking it out)
I think that was the cause of AE's failure. Long time since I looked at it but IIRC he'd had some overheating issue a few months previously and I believe the piston/bore had started to be damaged in this time. The head was sorted but the block wasn't and eventually failed as it was run more.
Since you'll already be having the head off I'd look at getting the pistons out and checking for signs of abnormal wear/damage in the bores.
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