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Cold air feed DIY

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Old 05-28-2012, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by unclefester
But you won't prove it - DYNO errors will mask any small gain or loss. The PRM I have is bolted right up to the wing so there's no hot air from the engine bay getting sucked into the inlet.

As for RAM effect, you'd need a bigger air trap and you'd need to be going far faster than NSL to have any appreciable measurable effect. It will suck far more than you can 'blow'.
When you take the car out on a cool evening and it runs and feels better that's cold dense air at work, can't say how effective the RPM is but a cheap temp probe at the intake mouth would tell you if it could be improved
Old 05-28-2012, 10:58 AM
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So many variables is the problem and you'd struggle to replicate enough of them to draw any major conclusions.

Now if someone could tell you what the power gain was per 1 degree of temperature drop at the intake then you'd have a meaningful start point.

My gut feeling is that all you improve is stuttering in traffic and a less messy exit from junctions and roundabouts. Once you're on the move there's more than enough airflow through that area for heatsoak to not be an issue unless you're one of those people who fits the cover over the gap between bumper and radiator
Old 05-28-2012, 12:31 PM
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its just an experiment really, thought i would hack the OEM box, before I go for a intake or go FI anyway.

I noticed the stuttering, and thought of Spoon snorkel but didn't wanna spend that much so i thought i would try this.

regarding the diameter, do you think it is too small? since looking at spoon style snorkel..the narrow bit is REALLY thin.
Old 05-28-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenmanS2000
Amazing that Honda, with their $millions for R&D, never thought of such a lash up
I'm willing to let you off, but a typical uneducated response.

Although Tmus's attempt wont help massively...

When tuning a car, there are varying factors that determine the tune, people who don't service there car, longevity, noise, emissions, resonance, costs of parts, best overall power etc etc - i could go on and on.
Old 05-28-2012, 02:05 PM
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Can't knock you for the effort Tmus, but there are better approaches/methods as OX says. I have done similar things to OX and noticed small differences.
Old 05-28-2012, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by unclefester
So many variables is the problem and you'd struggle to replicate enough of them to draw any major conclusions.

Now if someone could tell you what the power gain was per 1 degree of temperature drop at the intake then you'd have a meaningful start point.

My gut feeling is that all you improve is stuttering in traffic and a less messy exit from junctions and roundabouts. Once you're on the move there's more than enough airflow through that area for heatsoak to not be an issue unless you're one of those people who fits the cover over the gap between bumper and radiator
Very rough calc is 1% for every 6 degree, that's due to cold air being more dense so it makes a bigger bang and the ECU pulls the timing back when it detects hot air
Obviously it's not the same for all cars but I'm sure someone could say how the ECU reacts to a 10 degree change and make an educated guess as to the loss of power
Might be good to know at what temp threshold this kicks in or if it's linnier , any chip monkeys reading this feel free to jump in with the data
Old 05-28-2012, 02:11 PM
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Yup i reckon around per every 10deg 2-3%
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