s2konroids

Are coilovers really better on say a B road etc? possibly stiffer so worse?

I just went with lowering springs (on my new shocks that had covered 2k at the time), that were closest matched for the stock coilovers and it lowered the car just over 20mm. I'd love to try out coilovers on these roads and see if they are any better.

Bassoctopus

14 years? Have I missed 2 years?

And you are assuming my springs, dampers and top mounts haven't been changed in the lifetime of the car, when in fact they were done 5 years and 40k ago. Thanks Mr Honda.

I have had plenty of decent handling cars to compare it to, having run an ATR and a DC2 ITR at the same time. We still have the ATR

Get a decent geo and there really is no point in swapping the stock dampers (IMO) unless they are getting tired - and that would be my advice to the OP. Geo first, see how you get on, then change if they are still not performing how you would like.

mikey k

What qualifies you to make those sweeping statements

lovegroova

"Better" is very subjective. For some, better on a bumpy B-road may simply mean "more comfortable", others will define "better" as "sharper, more nimble, or faster".

Then there's the question of "which coilovers" - the 3 different kinds I've had have all been very different - those that were best on track were the worst on the road.

I suspect there's a big difference between budget stuff like the Meister-Rs and some of the more expensive stuff like Ohlins/Nitrons/Bilsteins/KWs.

I've been in a car equipped with some TEIN Monoflex and it was most uncomfortable and the owner tells me it really struggles on the bumpy stuff.

mikey k

+1 the rears are so short (especially when lowered) they need the reservoir, that is the reason I went from Nitron Sports to Tracks

mikey k

There are 3 issues with the S and coilovers;
1) lack of rear travel especially when lowered - which is why OEM, Bilstien and Nitron (to name a few) all have reservoirs on the rear
2) spring AND valve rates need to be matched and selected to suit the purpose. JDM & cheaper stuff tends to be designed around very stiff set ups
3) you need to take time to let it settle and mess with the setting and geo to find the "sweet spot"

I loved my Nitrons but once I found the sweet spot rarely messed with them. I did 20k miles on them around Europes B roads with a fussy LSB most the time.
If you are going to do it - do it properly!

WinFreak

Hmmz yes don't know where I got 14 from!

So if you replaced the standard coilovers for some new standard ones you must've paid the shocking price that come with them?

RichwiththeS2000

Arch gap is the worst thing about OEM suspension... if it wasn't for that I'd be pretty happy with the ride, although I think the damping quality can be improved on, coupled with a lower COG and rear control arms (plus geo) the overall effect should be pretty good. I will probably be getting some Meister Rs in a couple of months.

Bassoctopus

Nope. Replaced FOC by Honda

tailhappy

I have an MY00 (the so called widow maker) thats on OEM suspension. Its been geo'd and drives like a dream on the road. It is plenty capable for fast road driving (had spirited drives on average T1-Rs down wet muddy country roads without any drama whatsoever). Superior handling would only be required on a race track. Coilovers are simply overkill for pure road use. I'll bet pound to a piece of shiz the OP has sized bushes and the GEO is miles out and he's finding the handling of the car "challenging".

Just usual forum BS "you need this, yeah you need that"