Coilover set up
09-12-2009, 01:10 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by Hypersonik,Sep 12 2009, 09:32 AM
As for damping, I run Tein Monoflex and have them on max damping settings 
Chris from CG set mine up and he said it is best for the rear to be 3/4 of the front setting. Originally he set mine up for Front +12, Rear +9. I found that too hard and the car is bouncing on the road, now I had it as Front +9, Rear +6. Car is better on the road but still bounce on some A roads.
09-12-2009, 02:43 AM
#12
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Pardon my ignorance but are you referring to damping as bound or rebound? I run my KW v3s in the middle range for bound and for rebound i run 7 out of 18 (18 being the softest) in the front and 9 in the rear. If i have them equal the car tends to oversteer more. Keep in mind that KW runs equal 8kg springs F and R.
Eho at what height do you run?
Eho at what height do you run?
09-12-2009, 02:58 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by eho,Sep 12 2009, 10:10 AM
Is that max soft or max hard?
Chris from CG set mine up and he said it is best for the rear to be 3/4 of the front setting. Originally he set mine up for Front +12, Rear +9. I found that too hard and the car is bouncing on the road, now I had it as Front +9, Rear +6. Car is better on the road but still bounce on some A roads.
Chris from CG set mine up and he said it is best for the rear to be 3/4 of the front setting. Originally he set mine up for Front +12, Rear +9. I found that too hard and the car is bouncing on the road, now I had it as Front +9, Rear +6. Car is better on the road but still bounce on some A roads.
It can get a bit choppy, but I like it like that - car feels alive
09-12-2009, 03:08 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by Hypersonik,Sep 12 2009, 02:58 AM
Max hard
It can get a bit choppy, but I like it like that - car feels alive
It can get a bit choppy, but I like it like that - car feels alive
09-12-2009, 05:18 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by Taseas,Sep 12 2009, 12:08 PM
Having them on the hard setting definately "feels" better in every way (steering input etc) but it IS slower. Are you sure that it is good for the shocks to run them in full hard? I think that its safer for the valve to work at one click softer. KW mentioned that i should never use them in full soft or full hard.
But I like the feel and the feel is worth the sacrifice in outright pace.
Dunno about max settings - not read anywhere about NOT having Teins on Max/Min settings.
TBH I find it a bit silly that you aren't allowed to use them. I mean how complex can it be to remove one notch either end to prevent user feuck up?
09-12-2009, 06:46 AM
#16
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Its just for the fact that the valve should not be used at fully open or fully closed for some reason, i don't know...
Mine is slower as well (hard rebound) but i keep it this way for the same reason...
Mine is slower as well (hard rebound) but i keep it this way for the same reason...
09-12-2009, 01:21 PM
#17
Thread Starter
As usual, some good debate. Thanks folks.
Sneakfish - I'm loving the BC's. I've never driven any other brand of coilovers or an older spec car, so I can't say how they compare, but the BC's are much much better than MY05 OEM kit and well worth the money.
Guess I should list my set up for reference:
Approx 20mm lower front and 15mm rear.
Currently running 23 clicks from soft front and 25 rear.
Spring rates 8kg front 10kg rear.
Honda revised geo + a bit of extra camber F&R
Cheers,
FB
Sneakfish - I'm loving the BC's. I've never driven any other brand of coilovers or an older spec car, so I can't say how they compare, but the BC's are much much better than MY05 OEM kit and well worth the money.
Guess I should list my set up for reference:
Approx 20mm lower front and 15mm rear.
Currently running 23 clicks from soft front and 25 rear.
Spring rates 8kg front 10kg rear.
Honda revised geo + a bit of extra camber F&R
Cheers,
FB
09-12-2009, 11:46 PM
#18
Mine's about 30mm lower at the front, and 20mm at the rear. To be honest, it was more for cosmetic reasons as I've never liked the "dog dragging its arse" look. 
I can't believe it makes a lot of difference, especially not to the aerodynamics (not at anything under 200mph anyway ).
I can't believe it makes a lot of difference, especially not to the aerodynamics (not at anything under 200mph anyway
).
09-13-2009, 02:44 AM
#19
UK Moderator
FWIW Spoon recommend running the rear 10 mm lower than the front
http://www.spoon.jp/jpn/database/details.php?id=892
"Notes & Important Issues
Standard set: radial tires
Spring rate: FRONT14kg/mm REAR12kg/mm
Attenuation: FRONT2 REAR2
Ride height: FRONT645mm REAR635mm"
Chris.
http://www.spoon.jp/jpn/database/details.php?id=892
"Notes & Important Issues
Standard set: radial tires
Spring rate: FRONT14kg/mm REAR12kg/mm
Attenuation: FRONT2 REAR2
Ride height: FRONT645mm REAR635mm"
Chris.
09-13-2009, 07:00 AM
#20
Registered User
I run Buddy Club N1's and have the following settings.
I lowered the ride height exactley 33mm Front and rear from the standard suspension heights.
I then set the the springs to the softest settings (just enough so the springs wouldn't rattle around between the top and bottom of the damper)
Then I run
2 Clicks front (from softest)
6 Clicks rear (from softest)
If I run anymore clicks at the front I get understeer on the road
My car currentley runs very neutral with a firm setup.
I lowered the ride height exactley 33mm Front and rear from the standard suspension heights.
I then set the the springs to the softest settings (just enough so the springs wouldn't rattle around between the top and bottom of the damper)
Then I run
2 Clicks front (from softest)
6 Clicks rear (from softest)
If I run anymore clicks at the front I get understeer on the road
My car currentley runs very neutral with a firm setup.