Clutch bleeding help please
#1
Thread Starter
Clutch bleeding help please
I have just replaced my clutch fluid as the old stuff was black, upon completion though the pedal has about 1-2 inches before there is any resistance at all, I have tried the gravity method and the 2 man method, when the wife presses the pedal the clutch release arm only moves about 1-2cm is this normal ?
Cheers.....Tony..
Cheers.....Tony..
#2
Well, yes; normal in that Hondas seem absolute c unts to bleed!
The pedal ought to have no free play.
I've even tried an Eezi-bleed on the 'Lude's back brakes and Norton Way Honda couldn't get the Civic's beyond slightly scary.
They've done the clutch fluid changes OK in the past, though.
Try flooring the pedal & giving the nipple (the car's!) a quick open, so a tiny amount spurts out. That slightly improved the 'Ludes brakes. The theory is that leaky nipples can let in air the conventional ways.
The pedal ought to have no free play.
I've even tried an Eezi-bleed on the 'Lude's back brakes and Norton Way Honda couldn't get the Civic's beyond slightly scary.
They've done the clutch fluid changes OK in the past, though.
Try flooring the pedal & giving the nipple (the car's!) a quick open, so a tiny amount spurts out. That slightly improved the 'Ludes brakes. The theory is that leaky nipples can let in air the conventional ways.
#4
Not normal air in system, Did you have a pipe with a slit in?, best to only let it get low by say 0.5 inch max. Regardless it will go black in a couple of weeks again LOL.
I did mine myself with the pipe better results but more time consuming.
I did mine myself with the pipe better results but more time consuming.
#5
By 2 man method mate, do you mean, one person is under the car, one in car, when one in car presses pedal you release bleed nipple til it stops spurting out fluid then nip it up, then pedal is released?
Crucial that the pedal is released when the bleed nipple is shut.
I've done this on all hydraulic clutch setups and it's never failed me.
Crucial that the pedal is released when the bleed nipple is shut.
I've done this on all hydraulic clutch setups and it's never failed me.
#6
Thread Starter
#7
It's a tried and tested way to bleed an awkward clutch, you will need a large syringe(you can get one at your local vet's, large animal syringe is what you want) and a small length of rubber hose, very handy tools to keep in your tool box anyway, first suck out most of the fluid from the master cylinder then place rags around it, then fill your syringe by attaching the small hose and sucking the fluid outa the new bottle then get rid of the air by pressing slightly, push the pipe on to the nipple then slacken the nipple, and then press the syringe slowly, keep checking the master isn't over flowing, tighten nipple and away you go, make sure there's no air in the syringe before you start, it sounds fiddly but it isn't and is quicker and more effective than normal bleeding, and the syringe and pipe will come in for other use's like when your replacing pads etc to remove excess fluid, or just sucking out old fluid before you do a change,
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#8
Thread Starter
Thanks for all your help guys, managed to get it done (I think), there is no way there can be any more air in there now. The clutch biting point is very low to the floor now which I like and hopefully is just a result of new clutch fluid, the old stuff must have been 13 years old as it was black and had some water in it as well.
Cheers.....Tony..
Cheers.....Tony..
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