Clutch bleed issues
#1
Clutch bleed issues
So I decided to change my clutch fluid as it was getting a bit dark. NOTE: clutch was functioning perfectly prior to the fluid change. I sucked out the old fluid, cleaned the reservoir and filled it with new honda fluid. Opened the valve and sucked through the fluid - I filled the reservoir every time it reached about 1/4, on the second refill the fluid was the new colour so I decided to do it one last time. Put everything back clutch felt okay at the start but now if I leave it for 20seconds it's almost like the pressure goes from the master cylinder, the pedal goes in very easy and I have to pull it back up and it then works as it should, untill the next 20seconds pass and it "looses pressure" again.
Any ideas? I've bled the fluid again(3 reservoirs worth) there seems to be no bubbles coming out....
Update: after driving it around for a bit, I found out that if I just rest my foot on the clutch it doesn't loose pressure
Any ideas? I've bled the fluid again(3 reservoirs worth) there seems to be no bubbles coming out....
Update: after driving it around for a bit, I found out that if I just rest my foot on the clutch it doesn't loose pressure
Last edited by Sam.Dzharov; 05-16-2020 at 07:10 AM.
#2
Not a fan of that method, bottle with tube on bleed nipple, open nipple and pump the pedal, assistant keeps reservoir topped up. We had a posh electric powered version at the garage that kept pressure on the reservoir and it full.
#3
#4
It's possible, can you fit a blank to the master cylinder or the pipe at the slave to eliminate one?
#6
Can all be done from the top. And should be.
Simply extract the dirty fluid from the reservoir and replace with clean. Swish it around and extract that and then refill with fresh fluid. Done. No air in the system. No need to bleed.
-- Chuck
Simply extract the dirty fluid from the reservoir and replace with clean. Swish it around and extract that and then refill with fresh fluid. Done. No air in the system. No need to bleed.
-- Chuck
#7
What about the fluid in the pipework and the cylinders??
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#8
The clutch hydraulic fluid gets recycled back to the master cylinder as the pedal is released. This is because of the large amount of travel in the hydraulic clutch which pushes a large quality of hydraulic oil thru the system which then gets pushed back as the clutch is released vs the brakes where the pistons barely move as the pads are literally touching the discs all the time.
@Billman250 notes:
and
Note the 3-6K mile change interval.
-- Chuck
@Billman250 notes:
Initial service:
-suck out old fluid
-clean res with paper towels till spotless
-fill it back up
you can be done here...this is where I recommend that you stop. Do the initial service every 3-6k miles. You'll soon learn the cleaner it is, the longer it stays cleaner.
-suck out old fluid
-clean res with paper towels till spotless
-fill it back up
you can be done here...this is where I recommend that you stop. Do the initial service every 3-6k miles. You'll soon learn the cleaner it is, the longer it stays cleaner.
I estimate 80% of people who tried a complete flush will be back with another thread that says their clutch pedal feels like crap, and they've bled and bled but cannot get the pedal right.
-- Chuck
#9
The clutch hydraulic fluid gets recycled back to the master cylinder as the pedal is released. This is because of the large amount of travel in the hydraulic clutch which pushes a large quality of hydraulic oil thru the system which then gets pushed back as the clutch is released vs the brakes where the pistons barely move as the pads are literally touching the discs all the time.
@Billman250 notes:and
Note the 3-6K mile change interval.
-- Chuck
@Billman250 notes:and
Note the 3-6K mile change interval.
-- Chuck
#10
sadly no. I've been using the suck, clean, and replace method.
I'm sure you'll get several suggestions and links from the "other 20%.
-- Chuck
I'm sure you'll get several suggestions and links from the "other 20%.
-- Chuck
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Sam.Dzharov (05-16-2020)