954chris

Done lots of searching on here and have found quite a lot of information, but just wanted to check a few things with you guys that have done it before I make a start!

I'm replacing all the suspension bushes for Powerflex poly ones and replacing the coilovers for BC Racing ones. I've also got a full set of bolts should any need to be cut off. It looks like I've managed to secure use of one of the ramps at the local college, and one of their technicians will be able to assist me with the more complex tasks, but I'll be doing the majority of the work myself.

So, to check my assumptions:

The silicon grease supplied with the bushes is applied to the inner and outer surfaces of the poly bush itself, yes? Whats the best grease to use on the bolts - I've got plenty of HT lithium grease or copper grease to choose from.

I've read that its best to torque all the bolts up with the weight of the car on the suspension to reduce squeeking from the poly bushes, is that right?

If some of the bushes don't want to come out of the arms using the hydraulic press then the best approach is to burn them out, yes? Is a powerful blowlamp enough or are we talking oxy?

Finally, and this sounds like a real schoolboy question as I'm asking it, but are the torque settings for the suspension bolts 'dry' figures? In other words should I ensure there is no grease on the threads before torqueing them?

Whilst I've got the car up in the air I'm intending to change the gearbox and diff fluids, plus i'll be re-torqueing the rear axle nuts to the higher values as recommended on several threads on here. Anything to watch out for with this?

Thanks for any help with this

eSeM

Two of the bushes are 2-piece, they have a collar at each end so won't push out. Probably best to incinerate the rubber and then use a hacksaw to remove the casing from the arm.

954chris

Cheers, which ones are they - I want to tackle the harder ones first!

loftust

Copper grease.

Torque the bolts with weight on wheels. No dry/wet figures...it's the same.

HTH

sound_wave

Cheers, which ones are they - I want to tackle the harder ones first!
[/quote]

Rear lower arm front bush, from memory.

CHIPPO

I am about to embark on this task to. And have the following thoughts which i will share and wait to be shot down in flames !

1) I think if you look at the poly bush web site they advise using soapy water to lubricate and push the bushes into housing, and also to push the inner in. not grease.

2) I still have a sneaky suspension that copper grease is not the most water proof for lubricating and preventing rust in the adjuster bolts , i am leaning towards marine or trailer grease which would provide sufficient lubrication but be far better at keeping water and thereby corrosion at bay in the future. After all the only reason these bolts need to move is to make adjustments to geo and not during normal suspension movement .

3) I presume that the suspension movement is as a result of twist within the bush material and not the bushes rotating in the housing or on the centre tube. And is this why when greased people seem to complain about squeaking because there is movement , hence the use of soapy water which will disappear fairly quickly once the bush has be tightened, with pre loading of suspension of course.

Well thats how i am thinking at the moment, when I get the first lot removed and have a god gander at them I will decide , unless you all know something i don't?????

mr-pitts

Cheers, which ones are they - I want to tackle the harder ones first!
[/quote]

Rear lower arm front bush, from memory.
[/quote]

I think you are right.... If you are good and not scared to use a hammer and chisel you can get them out like that.

BenRNBP

I was thinking about the copper greasing thing not being the best corrosion inhibitor too - presumably it's because there are disparate metals and a corrosion cell is created.

A while ago one of the motorbike fans on the forum mentioned ACF-50 as a top product for bikes and questioned why why nobody used it on cars.

Anyway I went to the site and found they have another product too: Corrosion Block

I reckon one of these products would be better to coat the adjuster bolts in than copper grease.

sound_wave

I guess it is a fair shout, but I couldn't see how expensive the stuff was? A can of copper grease isn't overly expensive. If the marine stuff is dead cheap, then I'd say go for it and report back with your findings.

I think with regards to things like the geo bolts, regular maintenance is the key. If you have the geo checked and bolts re-greased each year, copper slip should be sufficient to keep them free.

CHIPPO

My thoughts are nothing to do with the cost of grease, but from a purely practical point of view and whats the best product for the task in hand.



Mt Geo has been done 4 times in 11 years and there has never been a seized adjuster despite the bolts having never been removed and greased. Luck maybe. But i do tend to go with WIM on this, if they move don't worry. This time mine will all be out and removed as i am fitting new coil overs and bushes so its the perfect time to get it right. Hence my question. And i doubt i will take them out again so the best grease for the job is paramount. I will have a look at this stuff the bike boys use.