Changing front discs and pads
09-20-2012, 01:23 AM
#51
It's almost impossible to eliminate air entirely, if you've rebuilt the system. Caliper castings are rough etc, and tend to create a 'champagne bubble' effect.
Road vibrations collect those into proper bubbles, so it's probably worth re-bleeding the system after a couple of weeks. You will eventually get rid of most of it.
PS - on an (insignificant) sample space of one, Gran'pappy's trick is a load of old bollocks, as anticipated.
Road vibrations collect those into proper bubbles, so it's probably worth re-bleeding the system after a couple of weeks. You will eventually get rid of most of it.
PS - on an (insignificant) sample space of one, Gran'pappy's trick is a load of old bollocks, as anticipated.
09-20-2012, 02:45 AM
#52
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i've used the method a couple of times with some success on bikes, but perhaps thats more effective because the master cylinder is almost vertically above the brake calipers 
Although it can work on bikes I can't see it being that effective on cars with the horizontal pipe runs, plus I reckon it can't be good for the brake caliper piston seals for the brakes to be 'on' for an extended period.
Although it can work on bikes I can't see it being that effective on cars with the horizontal pipe runs, plus I reckon it can't be good for the brake caliper piston seals for the brakes to be 'on' for an extended period.
09-22-2012, 11:59 AM
#53
Some interesting follow-ups;
bleeding the rears is a PIA, even with the Eezi-bleed. I don't think the pressure-limiting valve helps, but the flow is fast enough to push out bubbles down the clear tube, so it ought to have shifted air out. Couldn't FIND any air, really...
Clamping the pedal & having a little squirt seems to improve matters slightly - if you pressure bleed, it gets slightly worse, so you have to clamp the pedal again. So that might give some support to the 'wobbly nipples' theory. It's now OK & seems solid, but with the servo charged, I can still floor the pedal. The car stops pretty abruptly like that, but I wonder if something else is going on. I suspect having partially-seized rears made the pedal feel firmer than it really should have been before, given that it has resulted in corrosion of the rear faces. Plus at 95,000, the master cylinder & servo may exhibit wear. So it's a combination of several things really. I think surfacing up the rear discs (by abusing the handbrake seems the laziest way) will probably produce further improvements.
I do also wonder sometimes, if fresh rubber piston seals are too fresh (supple) & need to seize up a bit with a few heat cycles.
I probably shouldn't be comparing it to an S2000 with 1/2 the mileage, a brand-new 86 or an NSX with upgraded hoses & discs & pads...
bleeding the rears is a PIA, even with the Eezi-bleed. I don't think the pressure-limiting valve helps, but the flow is fast enough to push out bubbles down the clear tube, so it ought to have shifted air out. Couldn't FIND any air, really...
Clamping the pedal & having a little squirt seems to improve matters slightly - if you pressure bleed, it gets slightly worse, so you have to clamp the pedal again. So that might give some support to the 'wobbly nipples' theory. It's now OK & seems solid, but with the servo charged, I can still floor the pedal. The car stops pretty abruptly like that, but I wonder if something else is going on. I suspect having partially-seized rears made the pedal feel firmer than it really should have been before, given that it has resulted in corrosion of the rear faces. Plus at 95,000, the master cylinder & servo may exhibit wear. So it's a combination of several things really. I think surfacing up the rear discs (by abusing the handbrake seems the laziest way) will probably produce further improvements.
I do also wonder sometimes, if fresh rubber piston seals are too fresh (supple) & need to seize up a bit with a few heat cycles.
I probably shouldn't be comparing it to an S2000 with 1/2 the mileage, a brand-new 86 or an NSX with upgraded hoses & discs & pads...
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