chuckys2k

Hi guys and girls, got a CEL light come up when started the car this morning and i would have thought it be due to the de-cat
But the car was idling bit funny meaning it was trying to hunt for a steady idle every minute or so and i drove the car for about 10mins to see if it drives fine, but i came to a junction and start jerking on me as i pulled off, it done that for a few seconds and went absolutely fine. I hooked it upto a diagnostic machine in my mates garage and showing up Knock sensor....What would cause it to go and i know their not cheap and a pain to get to but where would i be able to buy one? Also is it worth to get a second hand one if its like half the price or less?

Thanks in advance

Daytona-Dave

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13646487838944

chuckys2k

Is that a geunine part though? As i have read copies may not work and cause CEL light to pop back up

MB

Have you recently had the clutch changed?

s2k_Nut

Not a genuine part, but guaranteed for 12 months, he sells quite a few and sold one to me recently it's only been in a couple of days, I will let you know if it fails ... but it is working so far!

The cause of them failing is often heat related, that is they get very hot and very cold due to their placement on the engine block, they become brittle as a result, and if you were to have your clutch changed for example or some other such maintenance then they can be damaged very easily.

Removing it and replacing it is a 10 minute job if you have access to a ramp and can 'stand' underneath the car. On a driveway on ramps I would imagine it would be nigh on impossible. Don't 'over tighten' it ... an alternative to the link above would be that you could take out the OEM 'borken' one, arraldite it back together and try the original back in place ... some people have had success doing this apparently and should mine fail soon, it is what I will do next.

Lots of information above courtesy of the wonderful Ray at Daytona Autos who helped me replace mine ... well actually I stood and watched him do it and we discussed lots of the above

Good luck.

Floppy

This is what the knock sensor should look like:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/alex-collins/7355091408/http://www.flickr.com/photos/alex-collins/7355091408/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/alex-collins/, on Flickr

But both of mine ended up like this due to them being so brittle:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/alex-collins/7326156904/http://www.flickr.com/photos/alex-collins/7326156904/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/alex-collins/, on Flickr

Your best bet is to get one from CFL Honda. Ordering it online with them it was shipped directly with Fedex, with me in 4 days and cost £75.

chuckys2k

Not a genuine part, but guaranteed for 12 months, he sells quite a few and sold one to me recently it's only been in a couple of days, I will let you know if it fails ... but it is working so far!

The cause of them failing is often heat related, that is they get very hot and very cold due to their placement on the engine block, they become brittle as a result, and if you were to have your clutch changed for example or some other such maintenance then they can be damaged very easily.

Removing it and replacing it is a 10 minute job if you have access to a ramp and can 'stand' underneath the car. On a driveway on ramps I would imagine it would be nigh on impossible. Don't 'over tighten' it ... an alternative to the link above would be that you could take out the OEM 'borken' one, arraldite it back together and try the original back in place ... some people have had success doing this apparently and should mine fail soon, it is what I will do next.

Lots of information above courtesy of the wonderful Ray at Daytona Autos who helped me replace mine ... well actually I stood and watched him do it and we discussed lots of the above

Good luck.
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Hi mate, have you covered much mileage from the knock sensor you bought from Daytona? Any CEL Light show up?
Cheers