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Car shakes at 75mph+

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Old 04-20-2010, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by J_D,Apr 20 2010, 04:26 AM
Make sure one of your calipers isnt seized, go for a drive and check the car rolls freely and check the temperature of the discs, see If any appear warmer than the rest.
I checked this last night. I've read a few threads on this forum about sticky callipers so after getting home last night, i checked all tyres and all were the same temp (to the touch).

Hope it's nothing too serious anyway and quickly solved by re-balancing the wheels properly.
Old 04-20-2010, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by CHIPPO,Apr 20 2010, 12:59 PM
Also copper greased the studs.
I seem to recall from the mists of time that the wheel studs/bolts should not be greased at all . The torque figure is for "dry" threads. I could of course be wrong but don't think so.
Old 04-20-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by unclefester,Apr 20 2010, 12:11 PM
Did they align the valve marks on the tyres with the valves on the wheel? I'd also suspect bad balancing - some places don't get it right first time depending how fast they span the wheel on the balancing machine.
They can still balance the wheel even if they haven't lined up the spot with the valve.

Sounds like the wheels just haven't been balanced properly if the wheel nuts are tight. Unfortunately, even though the balancing machines are very good the tyre fitters still sometimes seem to fail to use them properly.

My car was delivered from Honda with a poorly balanced rear. There were loads of weights scattered all over the wheel as they'd chased the balance but never got it right.

My local tyre fitter stripped off all the weights, spun the wheel on their balancing machine and fitted one 25g weight and the wheel was balanced perfectly.
Old 04-20-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Heinz '57,Apr 20 2010, 01:53 PM
I seem to recall from the mists of time that the wheel studs/bolts should not be greased at all . The torque figure is for "dry" threads. I could of course be wrong but don't think so.
The threads can be greased. The important thing is that you don't grease the taper where the bolts tighten onto the wheels.
Old 04-20-2010, 05:32 AM
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There is a significant difference between the torque on dry threads (high friction) and greased threads (low friction) and so I was always under the impression that bolts/studs should only be fitted dry if they are to be torqued up.
Agree completely with the taper advice.

"Lubrication can reduce the torque value by 15 – 25%, so lubricating a screw designed to be torqued dry could over tighten it. Over tightening may cause the bolt to fail, it could damage the screw thread or stretch the bolt. A bolt stretched beyond its elastic limit may no longer adequately clamp the joint."

What does the workshop manual say on this? (serious question)
Old 04-20-2010, 05:48 AM
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Has it been serviced by The Scuderia Torro Rosso F1 Team recently?
Old 04-20-2010, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Bramblecat,Apr 20 2010, 05:48 AM
Has it been serviced by The Scuderia Torro Rosso F1 Team recently?
No - hopefully the wheels won't therefore fall off on my drive home from work!!
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