Car Detailing
03-14-2013, 04:56 AM
#21
Thats great, thanks for the info 
Am I correct to think then that polishing before applying G Techniq will just ensure that any tiny marks/fine scratches in the laquer from finishing would be polished out and corrected. Then the IPA dilution is used to remove the polishes etc for the G Techniq to be applied to the freshly corrected paint?
Also, once the G Techniq and EXO are applied does that mean then there isn't much point in polishing and using traditional waxing methods etc?
Its like paint surgery for cars!
Am I correct to think then that polishing before applying G Techniq will just ensure that any tiny marks/fine scratches in the laquer from finishing would be polished out and corrected. Then the IPA dilution is used to remove the polishes etc for the G Techniq to be applied to the freshly corrected paint?
Also, once the G Techniq and EXO are applied does that mean then there isn't much point in polishing and using traditional waxing methods etc?
Its like paint surgery for cars!
Once you've applied C1 / EXO it will only need washing and drying carefully to minimise swirling
I would advise the use of something like diluted C2 ( what ever version is current
) as a drying aid to maintain the finish .You should only need to polish once every 6 month's or so to remove any wash / drying induced marring .
Polishing will remove any paint protection so will have to be re-applied .
I have gone over to Wolf's Hardbody as it has similar properties to C1 but is cheaper , you get more and as most people with OCD polish every 6 month's ( winter / summer prep ) there is no need for a coating that last's 2 or more year's , plus application is easier .
03-17-2013, 04:36 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Had a look at the wolfs hard body. How does that get applied compared to the C1? Also, would even the C1 need reapplication if I polish it 6 monthly with something that doesn't have any cutting agents in it?
03-17-2013, 10:01 AM
#23
Hardbody is still just wipe on with a make up pad but then left to cure for 15 / 30 min's until it haze's then buffed gently .
As for polishing after application ,that's a good question
Unfortunately I'm not quite sure of the answer as , to polish , you would need some form of cut, otherwise your not strictly polishing
It's virtually impossible to avoid wash / drying inflicted swirl's but I have a suspicion that with a product lie C1 /Hardbody a good deal of this marring is in the coating itself and not the paint .
It would be a good idea to have a look at LG's paint to see how it's stood up to scratch resistance .
For me , because I do refine every 6 month's the Hardbody is the better option especially as you get enough to layer it and hopefully increase depth
If you want too just prep then forget about it then the current best on the market ( IMHO ) is the 22PLE sold by Polished Bliss but @ £ 125 a pop a bit too much for me although I'm going to try their Rim and Metal coat on my wheel's week after next as I don't tend to polish them
As for polishing after application ,that's a good question
Unfortunately I'm not quite sure of the answer as , to polish , you would need some form of cut, otherwise your not strictly polishing
It's virtually impossible to avoid wash / drying inflicted swirl's but I have a suspicion that with a product lie C1 /Hardbody a good deal of this marring is in the coating itself and not the paint .
It would be a good idea to have a look at LG's paint to see how it's stood up to scratch resistance .
For me , because I do refine every 6 month's the Hardbody is the better option especially as you get enough to layer it and hopefully increase depth
If you want too just prep then forget about it then the current best on the market ( IMHO ) is the 22PLE sold by Polished Bliss but @ £ 125 a pop a bit too much for me although I'm going to try their Rim and Metal coat on my wheel's week after next as I don't tend to polish them
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