simonix

I agree with Chris really. We use 3M mostly at work along with some Fareclar products. But Gtechniq is great stuff! Very expensive though.

As for paint thickness, just for idle information If anyone's interested our cars at work seem to average the following for manufacturers paint:

Jaguar - 220 microns
Land Rover - 190 microns
Renault - 150 microns
Skoda - 110 microns
VW - 110 microns.

I always think its quite interesting stuff! Haha, I know I'm a geek but it's my job! :-)

e130dan

Would deffinately recommend a das 6 polisher.

whaninoz

Floppy's car will be oven baked.

Tim S

The machine polisher is for putting on polish only (not wax) unless I'm reading that wrong... take it all off by hand with a microfibre cloth.

I've got a Silverline orbital sander with a speed control and a velcro backing which I use for polishing on the rare occasions I polish. It will run as slow as a Porter Cable. No idea if it's still available but it was only about £25. It's got a 5" velcro disk rather than the 6" disc on the Porter Cable which limits pad choice, but I have managed so far with Menzerna pads.

I presume you've already found http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/... and if you haven't, see you in a few months.

Tim S

I should add the Elite Snow Foam wands work well:

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/elite-...nd-free-1l.php

Only one I've ever had so can't compare it to any others.

jsh

2 pack or cellulose ?

Is the colour coat 2 pack and clear coat cellulose ?

If the clearcoat is cellulose it will take approx 6 weeks to gas off and will not take kindly to being polished until it has , in that it will be too soft and you will get holograms .

If oven baked 2 pack , depending on paint / hardener ratio , it may polish up so try a small area first and inspect under suitable lighting or direct sunlight from all angles .

Gtechniq C1 is the only way to go for protection ( + EXO ) if you want to improve beading ( I use C3 cos I feel the need to put something on my paint rather than just wash / dry and go and IMHO C3 gives a warmer glow to black paint .

Go with a foam gun and pressure washer purely because its more fun

Floppy

Bit of a thread resurrection! Thanks for the input. I'll be looking into getting some G Techniq then seeing as most of you are recommending it.

No idea what the paint is apart from it not being a Honda paint and its solvent based with clear top coat. It'll be easy enough to find out though.

Floppy

Right I've been reading into the G Techniq and can see the C1 looks like good stuff but what do you do before putting it on? Make sure there are no contaminants, then polish to be totally swirl free and then wash again to remove residue followed by an application of the C1?

Anyone know anything about any of their other products like EXO?

jsh

If you have a freshly painted car there should not be much in the way of contaminants

The current accepted way of de-contaminating involves the use of Tardis and a de-ironiser ( Iron X ) Not to be reccomended on fresh paint .

Clay if required .

Polish fresh paint with a mild polish on a finishing pad ( I prefer Scholl S40 using a green Lake Country Constant Pressure pad) .

Product's like Gtechniq C1 need a totally clean surface to bond too so require the paint to be wiped down with IPA ( diluted 50% with water ) to leave a squeaky clean surface .

EXO is kin expensive , has to be applied in + 20c temperature but is wipe on / wipe off application and has amazing water repelling / stay clean properties .

Floppy

Thats great, thanks for the info

Am I correct to think then that polishing before applying G Techniq will just ensure that any tiny marks/fine scratches in the laquer from finishing would be polished out and corrected. Then the IPA dilution is used to remove the polishes etc for the G Techniq to be applied to the freshly corrected paint?

Also, once the G Techniq and EXO are applied does that mean then there isn't much point in polishing and using traditional waxing methods etc?

Its like paint surgery for cars!