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Car dangerous after alignment

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Old 04-13-2011, 12:31 AM
  #11  

 
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If you're not happy with it maybe get the Geo set by somebody like Centre Gravity (Birmingham). It's not cheap by all means but its the best money I've ever spent on the S. I was never happy with mine when my local garage did it even though they set it back to the so called factory settings.
Old 04-13-2011, 12:37 AM
  #12  

 
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Originally Posted by Ultra_Nexus
Originally Posted by Joeh' timestamp='1302649707' post='20459380
What is the toe and camber they've setup for you?

The 17's are wider in the front but the same in the rear AFAIK but it shouldn't be an issue..

Did they use a Hunter system?
No offence Joeh, but your post has no meaning here?!

04 settings are used

we have no mention of what tyre sizes are used, but both front and rears are wider on OEM 17s compared to OEM 16s

There are plenty of other systems that can be used that will offer up hunter style accuracy

LOL! As you can see I wrote that in the early hours of the morning.. another case of skim reading but still my point is valid d:

Was asking about the Hunter system as they have the correct predefined settings for the S2000 but I've found that some other alignment systems didn't..!


Also I was asking what they have set as anyone can say they've set the factory settings when they've just gone by what the computer says - which may not be right.. so its important to actually know the measurements or see the alignment sheet

You could be spot on though with the theory that the car is actually driving as it should !

Joeh
Old 04-13-2011, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lovegroova
If the rear is set to toe out, that is not good at all.

More toe in will stabilise things, and is a great idea for those of us who are not driving gods. It will lead to increased tyre wear, but that's cheaper than crashing.

We setup one of the civic cup cars at the weekend at silverstone, in practice he spun it 3 times and said the car felt like it wanted to come 'around' him at every corner.

.05mm toe in at the rear, half a degree more camber at the rear and corner weighting - he went out in his first race ever in the car and set the fastest lap

to the OP, as everyone has said, getting proper geo done, on any car but especially the s2k is a must and probably one of the best 'mods' you can do.
Old 04-13-2011, 12:44 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by cyber gook
Cheers for the info guys!BTW what is standard castor? Does anyone have a link to a Recent geo sheet for a standard 2001 car with similar set up to mine?
Castor is 6 degrees plus or minus 45 minutes, adjust to taste.
Old 04-13-2011, 12:45 AM
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I had mine done originally at STS tyres and it was so bad I had to get a refund they said at the time that it was the most advanced 4 wheel alighnment machine in the country but it didnt adjust my camber whoops eventualy took it to DSA who did a great job.
Old 04-13-2011, 01:36 AM
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Take it to someone who knows what they are doing and asks you questions about how you want it to drive
As you found it's false economy taking it to your average place with the settings off a database
Old 04-13-2011, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey k
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing and asks you questions about how you want it to drive
As you found it's false economy taking it to your average place with the settings off a database


Unless you know what you are doing, you need to go to someone who does.

However, if someone wants to tell me what size tyres, what type of tyre, what suspension setup they are using and what they want the car to do, I can offer pointers on where to start

I like my car to be flighty/pointy. If it squirms under braking, I have confidence the car will turn in. This is very particular to my driving style though. With 225/245 17inch road tyres and 10kg/10kg suspension, here is what I had in Degrees.minutes. Track settings (on road tyres) in brackets, add more camber for semi slicks:

Front

Camber -1.40 (2.3)
Castor 6.50 (5.3 - 6.0)
Toe 0.0 (0.1 - 0.2 total)

Rear

Camber -2.10 (2.3)
Toe +0.26 (0.13 per wheel) which is the lowest I could go (impossible to have toe out)

HTH
Old 04-13-2011, 06:48 AM
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Wheel/Tyre size F 17x9 ET 25 with 225 45R
R 17x9.5 ET 20 with 255 40R
Old 04-13-2011, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Ultra_Nexus
Originally Posted by mikey k' timestamp='1302687416' post='20460835
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing and asks you questions about how you want it to drive
As you found it's false economy taking it to your average place with the settings off a database


Unless you know what you are doing, you need to go to someone who does.

However, if someone wants to tell me what size tyres, what type of tyre, what suspension setup they are using and what they want the car to do, I can offer pointers on where to start

I like my car to be flighty/pointy. If it squirms under braking, I have confidence the car will turn in. This is very particular to my driving style though. With 225/245 17inch road tyres and 10kg/10kg suspension, here is what I had in Degrees.minutes. Track settings (on road tyres) in brackets, add more camber for semi slicks:

Front

Camber -1.40 (2.3)
Castor 6.50 (5.3 - 6.0)
Toe 0.0 (0.1 - 0.2 total)

Rear

Camber -2.10 (2.3)
Toe +0.26 (0.13 per wheel) which is the lowest I could go (impossible to have toe out)

HTH
That sounds about right to me! I like throttle-adjustability.

2001 car with 17" Mugen GPs & OEM Bridgestones.
Old 04-13-2011, 09:00 AM
  #20  

 
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Its so easy for any geometry place to adjust the geometry incorrectly and put you in the next available hedge , get it checked it mate asap


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