Badly pitted windscreen and bumper
09-19-2006, 12:46 PM
#21
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TBH I'm less worried about the windscreen.
I see all these "1 stone chip" cars and it makes me worry about resale time. Ah well. Just going to have to get some more before I respray it.
I see all these "1 stone chip" cars and it makes me worry about resale time. Ah well. Just going to have to get some more before I respray it.
09-19-2006, 02:13 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Bada Bing!,Sep 19 2006, 08:13 PM
Meets are what caused it for mine. Absolutely shot blasted the front of my S, they did. Wouldn't have had it any other way though. 
My current car has done 5k of "meets" out a total 7k
Just going to have to get some more before I respray it.
with that as well!
09-20-2006, 12:35 AM
#24
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For some reason the OEM lip is really bad - its a different shade of grey nearly due to stone chips, whereas the actual bumper isn't too bad. The lip is dealer paitned, I wonder if they use different paint, or different quality or something.
09-20-2006, 12:52 AM
#25
Yup,
refinished paint is rarely as hard as factory paint.
Something to do with it being formulated to be easier to blend in.
It used to be because factory paint was high-temperature baked, but I don't think that really applies with modern two-packs.
refinished paint is rarely as hard as factory paint.
Something to do with it being formulated to be easier to blend in.
It used to be because factory paint was high-temperature baked, but I don't think that really applies with modern two-packs.
09-20-2006, 12:59 AM
#26
mine is not bad. Done 26k in 5 years and i'd say there are probably half a dozen chips on the bonnet/wings - these are all absolutely tiny - and the same number again on the bumper. bumper is pretty flat so deflection is not an option i guess. not noticed anything on the windscreen.. adjust your focal length and they'll blur out 
doing roadworks on my route to work at the minute and the road is covered in shyte.. not good. and my bike is still off the road waiting new parts..
need to find a new route in.
doing roadworks on my route to work at the minute and the road is covered in shyte.. not good. and my bike is still off the road waiting new parts..
need to find a new route in.
09-20-2006, 02:14 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Nick Graves,Sep 20 2006, 09:52 AM
Yup,
refinished paint is rarely as hard as factory paint.
Something to do with it being formulated to be easier to blend in.
It used to be because factory paint was high-temperature baked, but I don't think that really applies with modern two-packs.
refinished paint is rarely as hard as factory paint.
Something to do with it being formulated to be easier to blend in.
It used to be because factory paint was high-temperature baked, but I don't think that really applies with modern two-packs.
Aftermarket paint can also vary massively dependant on manufacturer, colour, type (water based, two pack, metallic, laquer etc) and application. The bake time and temperature can have a major impact on the end hardness.
There is some new paint on the market that is cured by applying UV light. It cures in about 4 minutes, rather than the 20 minutes it currently takes to bake off paint and is apparantly very hard. You also loose the variability of the paint hardness dependant on how long the car has been baked for. Ie it either cures fully or remains tacky. I suspect that this is the way forward for the industry as a whole and should give an improvement in stone chip resistance, or so the sales hype goes.
09-20-2006, 03:31 AM
#28
Originally Posted by lower,Sep 20 2006, 11:14 AM
That's not entirely true. Factory paint varies massively dependant on manufacturer and finish ie metallic versus flat paint.
Aftermarket paint can also vary massively dependant on manufacturer, colour, type (water based, two pack, metallic, laquer etc) and application. The bake time and temperature can have a major impact on the end hardness.
There is some new paint on the market that is cured by applying UV light. It cures in about 4 minutes, rather than the 20 minutes it currently takes to bake off paint and is apparantly very hard. You also loose the variability of the paint hardness dependant on how long the car has been baked for. Ie it either cures fully or remains tacky. I suspect that this is the way forward for the industry as a whole and should give an improvement in stone chip resistance, or so the sales hype goes.
Aftermarket paint can also vary massively dependant on manufacturer, colour, type (water based, two pack, metallic, laquer etc) and application. The bake time and temperature can have a major impact on the end hardness.
There is some new paint on the market that is cured by applying UV light. It cures in about 4 minutes, rather than the 20 minutes it currently takes to bake off paint and is apparantly very hard. You also loose the variability of the paint hardness dependant on how long the car has been baked for. Ie it either cures fully or remains tacky. I suspect that this is the way forward for the industry as a whole and should give an improvement in stone chip resistance, or so the sales hype goes.
There are a lot of claims about these modern non-bake paints being super-tough, etc.
How much is hype & how much is reality, who knows?
I know they're superb compared to the old acrylics & cellulose shit we used to suffer!
09-20-2006, 06:17 AM
#29
The UV paint is slightly different in that it works on a a different setting principle to paints you have to bake off. Baked paints need the solvent removing from the paint, hence the baking.
Do it too fast and at too high a temperature and the surface of the paint skins, the solvent remains trapped underneath and will then come out when the car is parked in the sun leading to cratering.
Do it at too low a temperature and again you won't get as much solvent out as you should and the paint won't harden fully.
The theory with this new UV based paint is that it once it has recieved enough UV light, the curing process happens without any futher assistance. Once that happens, it either fully hardens, or it doesn't and remains tacky. There shouldn't be any room for getting it wrong or rushing it as currently happens.
Whether this is true or not i don't know. I do know that there is some serious demand for a spraybooth that can set the UV curing paint which is why we're developing one at the moment.
Do it too fast and at too high a temperature and the surface of the paint skins, the solvent remains trapped underneath and will then come out when the car is parked in the sun leading to cratering.
Do it at too low a temperature and again you won't get as much solvent out as you should and the paint won't harden fully.
The theory with this new UV based paint is that it once it has recieved enough UV light, the curing process happens without any futher assistance. Once that happens, it either fully hardens, or it doesn't and remains tacky. There shouldn't be any room for getting it wrong or rushing it as currently happens.
Whether this is true or not i don't know. I do know that there is some serious demand for a spraybooth that can set the UV curing paint which is why we're developing one at the moment.