Back in July i bought.....
#221
Congratulations!
I've always relied upon a flank wall on a nearby industrial estate. Since it's brick, it's already conveniently marked out for height & left/right. No reason why your fence method wouldn't work, as long as the road is level.
I once made some headlights for the Civic VTi...
I've always relied upon a flank wall on a nearby industrial estate. Since it's brick, it's already conveniently marked out for height & left/right. No reason why your fence method wouldn't work, as long as the road is level.
I once made some headlights for the Civic VTi...
#222
Thread Starter
made headlights? I have an image of two torches and gaffer tape..
I have never had to align headlights before, a lot of firsts with this car.
My worst DIY was on a vaux 20 XE in a calibration, I over tightened a bolt and snapped the oil pump casing. Cost me a fortune. Proper bad engineering by them though but remains my fault.
I bought a couple of torque wrenches after that
If not for the body shop cock up it would have just been a drop link which failed in the last few days so.. things are improving
I have never had to align headlights before, a lot of firsts with this car.
My worst DIY was on a vaux 20 XE in a calibration, I over tightened a bolt and snapped the oil pump casing. Cost me a fortune. Proper bad engineering by them though but remains my fault.
I bought a couple of torque wrenches after that
If not for the body shop cock up it would have just been a drop link which failed in the last few days so.. things are improving
#223
that was it, basically.
It was an aftermarket halo-projector kit, but the projectors were LHD and crappy little things. I replaced them with some decent (50mm?) Hella torches with the correct pattern. So it did take a bit of aligning, low beam to range beam and then down the road alignment.
It was an aftermarket halo-projector kit, but the projectors were LHD and crappy little things. I replaced them with some decent (50mm?) Hella torches with the correct pattern. So it did take a bit of aligning, low beam to range beam and then down the road alignment.
#224
Thread Starter
got the Goodridge braided hoses and started fitting, all seems good so far..they dont come with banjo bolts and one of mine was twisted, so close to snapping, i ordered all new from honda.. they are about 6 quid each
the kit specifies a torque setting on the box and does supply crush washers
contemplating stoptech discs one i've done this
the kit specifies a torque setting on the box and does supply crush washers
contemplating stoptech discs one i've done this
#225
Thread Starter
the Goodridge were great, all perfect fit so happy with that.
new rear AD08Rs fitted. look mean and moody. do not work well when cold
alarm started going off. being suspicious i thought bonnet switch which was corroded as feckery so i removed it and wrapped the connector. still random false alarms.
found a toad manual, it tells me its the door switches. the passenger one i noticed didnt activate the interior light...
removed, cleaned.. still doesnt activate light.
then i discovered these are far from simple. 3 switches, the centre one, an individual right and left and the door...there are diodes in the unit too and the feed comes from somwhere else (not direct from doors)..
fun fun fun
other than that i've noticed she gets a shitty idle if i dont give it a blast which is not easy this weather.. ah well
new rear AD08Rs fitted. look mean and moody. do not work well when cold
alarm started going off. being suspicious i thought bonnet switch which was corroded as feckery so i removed it and wrapped the connector. still random false alarms.
found a toad manual, it tells me its the door switches. the passenger one i noticed didnt activate the interior light...
removed, cleaned.. still doesnt activate light.
then i discovered these are far from simple. 3 switches, the centre one, an individual right and left and the door...there are diodes in the unit too and the feed comes from somwhere else (not direct from doors)..
fun fun fun
other than that i've noticed she gets a shitty idle if i dont give it a blast which is not easy this weather.. ah well
#226
Clean out the IACV if you haven't already
#227
Thread Starter
yeah did do that a while back. actually i think cleaning the TB was more effective. it just needs to stretch its legs then its ok.
so.. the pass side switch is fine but earthing that wire doesnt switch on the centre light so will need to trace the wire. this is what the toad is complaining about. stainless bonner switch fitted and working.
i dont like electrics
so.. the pass side switch is fine but earthing that wire doesnt switch on the centre light so will need to trace the wire. this is what the toad is complaining about. stainless bonner switch fitted and working.
i dont like electrics
#228
Do you store it with a tank brimmed with super?
#229
Thread Starter
#230
Thread Starter
i must admit i dislike Gremlins.. I'm not racist but as a species they are just bad news
The alarm constantly false alarms and the LED flashing twice says door circuit. The S2000 makes an earth with it's door and bonnet switches when any of these are opened, thus completing a circuit and switching on a light. The TOAD alarm was hooked into the drivers side circuit before the gauge assembly and this all tested fine. The passenger side also tested fine to this point (it looks a ballache going higher up towards the gauge where the diode lives..)
originally i was thinking the pass door wire was compromised, i was getting a voltage reading across the feed to the light which varied around 4-5v when it should be nowt (doors closed).. but the earth worked switch fine at the point i could last test it, near your right knee effectively.
So i tried bridging the pass door to drivers and the problem has gone away. Both doors now activate the ceiling light and the alarm doesnt appear (so far) to trigger anymore. i dont get it. I didnt even cut the pass door wire.
the alarm looks well fitted, hard to get to, all soldered joints and i did fiddle with some of those so maybe that was it.... from what i could tell (i am colour blind so this isnt ideal work for me) the alarm fitter did put a bypass wire in to go to that green/yellow wire which is the earth feed in your 2 pin ceiling light feed, that does hop a few diodes but the light has a pair anyway so not sure why they are needed...
if it works over the next few days i'll make it permanent and continue on my way .. till it catches fire or something.
The alarm constantly false alarms and the LED flashing twice says door circuit. The S2000 makes an earth with it's door and bonnet switches when any of these are opened, thus completing a circuit and switching on a light. The TOAD alarm was hooked into the drivers side circuit before the gauge assembly and this all tested fine. The passenger side also tested fine to this point (it looks a ballache going higher up towards the gauge where the diode lives..)
originally i was thinking the pass door wire was compromised, i was getting a voltage reading across the feed to the light which varied around 4-5v when it should be nowt (doors closed).. but the earth worked switch fine at the point i could last test it, near your right knee effectively.
So i tried bridging the pass door to drivers and the problem has gone away. Both doors now activate the ceiling light and the alarm doesnt appear (so far) to trigger anymore. i dont get it. I didnt even cut the pass door wire.
the alarm looks well fitted, hard to get to, all soldered joints and i did fiddle with some of those so maybe that was it.... from what i could tell (i am colour blind so this isnt ideal work for me) the alarm fitter did put a bypass wire in to go to that green/yellow wire which is the earth feed in your 2 pin ceiling light feed, that does hop a few diodes but the light has a pair anyway so not sure why they are needed...
if it works over the next few days i'll make it permanent and continue on my way .. till it catches fire or something.